In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

Question: The assembly manual for my Apache refers to five control horn sets. The parts bag contains only 3 sets in total and I think I only need 3 sets. Is this correct?

Answer: Yes only three control horn sets are required for your Apache. One control horn is used for the rudder and two control horns are used for the elevators.

Question: I want to completely remove the engine clamp bolts from the engine mount in my Apache III. How do I do this?

Answer: This is not difficult but if it is necessary, there are two ways to approach this.

• Method A: Undo the engine mount bolts that retain the engine mount to the firewall. Try to just loosen them enough so that you can toe the engine mount beam inwards at the nose and then subsequently remove the engine clamp bolts. Then retighten the engine mount bolts to secure the engine mount beam to the firewall.
• Method B: Notch small cutouts into the lip of the fuselage that wraps into the engine compartment. The cutout notches should be positioned above each engine clamp bolt. Once the cutout notches have been completed you will be able to to undo the engine clamp bolts and remove them without moving the engine mount beams. Use a dremel tool or a small round bastard file to cut out the notches. Seal the exposed wood in the notches with Pacer Finishing Resin or thin ZAP/CA to prevent oil and fuel residue from penetrating into the wood.

Question: How do I install the Fuel Tank into my VMAR Apache III?

Answer: This is not difficult but the instruction book does not cover this directly.

Do the fuel tank setup first. Install the internal tubing and clunk(s). When the stopper has been tightened but not overtightened, install pieces of fuel tubing between or over the ends of the metal pipes to seal them against dirt and debris. Mark the bottom of the tank so that you can clearly see which way the tank is to be positioned in the model.

Remove the fuel compartment hatch from the bottom of the fuselage.

Remove the black sealing gasket from the fuel tank. Apply sealant such as Pacer Dap-A-Goo to the front face of the tank around the neck and re-install the gasket. Apply more sealant to the front face of the gasket.

Insert the tank into the fuel tank compartment with the tubes forward and oriented so that the bottom of the tank is positioned correctly. Press the tank firmly against the back side of the firewall and secure in place while the sealant cures.

From the engine mount area, apply more sealant around the neck of the fuel tank working from the front of the fuselage.

When the sealant has dried, support the tank with sponge foam around the sides and bottom of the tank. You may wish to install your battery pack beneath or behind the tank before inserting the sponge foam.

Reinstall the fuel tank compartment hatch to the bottom of the fuselage.

Some copies of the the Apache III Instruction Manual may have typo errors as follows:
Page 15 (or 20 depending on your manual) Stage 20 Picture 20.2 The annotation on the bottom of the fuselage showing the location of the landing gear for the tricycle gear configuration may be wrong. If the annotation says "Main gear mounting holes for tail dragger configuration" it is incorrect and should say "Main gear mounting holes for tricyle gear configuration"

Some versions of the Apache III may have been shipped with the rudder control horn mounting hole drilled too low. The rudder control horn mounting hole is pre-drilled at the factory prior to the rudder being covered. The hole is about .25” (6mm) in diameter and is located just aft of the rudder hinge line towards the bottom of the rudder. The hole can be located by holding the vertical stabilizer and rudder assembly and backlighting it from behind. A limited number of Apache III’s produced in the fall of 2003 and shipped to market in the Nov 2003 through Spring 2004 time frame may have the hole drilled about 1.25”(31mm) too low.

Resolution.

In Brief: Drill a new hole for the rudder control horn approximately 1.25” (31mm) higher than the hole pre-drilled at the factory.

In Detail: Insert the vertical stabilizer and rudder assembly into the mounting slot in the top of the fuselage. Locate the rudder control rod protruding from the top of the aft end of the fuselage. Free the rudder control rod from any lockdown tape installed near the servo tray for shipping purposes. From the aft end of the fuselage, extend the rudder control rod until it reaches the rudder hinge line. The rod should be approximately in line with the rudder control horn hole. If it is not, mark where the control rod crosses the rudder hinge line. Remove the vertical stabilizer from the fuselage. Drill a new rudder control horn hole to align with the control rod. Drill the hole to be the same diameter as that of the incorrectly placed hole done by the factory. Install the rudder control horn assembly in the new hole per the instruction procedures in the manual.

Question: The servo arm on my wing servo is contacting the head of the pilot figure in my Apache III. Is this normal? What should I do to fix it?

Answer: No this is not what we intended and it should be fixed before flying your model. There are a couple of ways to resolve this.

1) Make sure your servo is a standard servo and that it is mounted down on the rails properly. Some of the ball bearing and high torque servos are in a case that stands higher than a standard servo.

2) Orient the servo so that the output shaft and arm are closer to the trailing edge of the wing rather than the leading edge. Adjust the aileron control rod lengths accordingly.

3) If after checking on 1 and 2, your servo arm is still contacting the pilot figure you will need to go to a lower profile servo or move the pilot figure slightly. We recommend moving the pilot figure and/or mounting plate... it's relatively simple to do. Here are three options that more or less accomplish the same thing:

• Loosen the mounting screws for the plate and try to slide the plate further forward to gain more clearance, or
• Remove the plate with pilot by sliding it backwards and out of the model. Examine the mounting rails. On both sides of the fuselage add a new rail below the existing rail leaving a wide enough vertical gap to accomodate the thickness of the plate. Re-install the plate and pilot so that the new rail is below the plate, or
• The pilot figure is mounted to a plate. You can remove the pilot figure from the plate and relocate the figure further forward to clear the servo. Reattach the pilot figure to the plate using Pacer Dap-A-Goo.

The CG location in the Instruction Book for the VMAR Arrow Tiger may be incorrect in some printings.

The CG for the VMAR Arrow Tiger should be located 3-3/4" to 4.0" back from the leading edge of the wing (measured where the wing meets the fuselage side). This will be approximately coincident with the thickest part of the wing. We recommend 3-3/4" for first flights.

Instructions that give the CG location at 3-1/8" to 3-3/8" are incorrect.

Question: Can the VMA Arrow Tiger 46-52 ARF be made to Hover?

Answer: No.

Better Answer: The Arrow Tiger was designed with knife edge and high speed in mind. Hovering was not in the design criteria. In theory almost anything with a power to weight ratio greater than 1 can be made to Hover. Give the weight of the Arrow Tiger and power of a typical 46 to 52 it is not possible to Hover the Arrow Tiger.

Question: Is the VMA Arrow Tiger 46-52 ARF considered a pattern ship?

Answer: No not really. The Arrow Tiger is a hot moving sport plane that is very aerobatic, does knife edge and many other maneuvers but it was not designed with pattern flying in mind. In could be used a stepping stone moving towards a pattern airplane such as the VMAR Avenger 60 ARF.

More Information about #ZBO-Y190604A ... BLOWOUT - VMAR ARROW TIGER 46-52 ARF - FINAL SALE 

This is a BLOWOUT... FINAL SALE item and the following caution applies: 

If you are able to build, repair, supply hardware for, assemble and set up without assistance you can save money buying a BLOWOUT item. If you are not able to perform these functions without assistance, you should NOT NOT NOT purchase a BLOWOUT item. Assume that work will be required and that some or all hardware and documentation will be missing. Shipping by Ground to USA and Canada only. Subject To Change Without Notice.

Without negating the caution above, we can provide the following additional information about this particular item:

Overall Condition:	"New In Box"
Color:	Red with Yellow, Black & White Trim.
Fuselage:	Included.
Wing:	Included.
Horizontal Stabilizer:	Included.
Vertical Stabilizer:	Included.
Cowl:	Included.
Parts Bag:	Included.
Previous Part#:	VMA-A340U

Previous Part# general information (for reference purposes only):

http://www.richmondrc.com/vma/common/techinfocommon/a340x/summary.htm

No other information is available regarding #ZBO-Y190604A  BLOWOUT - VMAR ARROW TIGER 46-52 ARF - FINAL SALE. 

Question: What type of blade is used in the VMAR Balsa Stripper? I want to have some spares in case the factory blade gets dull or breaks.

Answer: The VMAR Balsa Stipper uses standard #11 Blades.

Question: I am planning a project using the VMAR Beaver 45-60 ARF on the VMAR 35" Floats. What would be the weight of the Beaver plus floats? I qm considering different power systems and radio gear, so please tell me the weight of the model plus floats without any engine or radio gear.

Answer: The weight of the VMAR Beaver 45-60 ARF equipped with VMAR 35" Floats is approx 5 lbs 9 oz [2530 grams]. This includes the weight of the cowl and a typical propeller but without any power system or radio gear.

More Information about #ZBO-Y190702A ... BLOWOUT - VMAR BEAVER 60-90 SEMISCL ARF FINAL SALE

This is a BLOWOUT... FINAL SALE item and the following caution applies: 

If you are able to build, repair, supply hardware for, assemble and set up without assistance you can save money buying a BLOWOUT item. If you are not able to perform these functions without assistance, you should NOT NOT NOT purchase a BLOWOUT item. Assume that work will be required and that some or all hardware and documentation will be missing. Shipping by Ground to USA and Canada only. Subject To Change Without Notice.

Without negating the caution above, we can provide the following additional information about this particular item:

Overall Condition:	"New In Box"
Color:	White with Yellow & Black Trim
Fuselage:	Included.
Wing:	Included.
Horizontal Stabilizer:	Included.
Vertical Stabilizer:	Included.
Cowl:	Included.
Landing Gear:	Included
Parts Bag:	Included.
Previous Part#:	VMA-B160W

Previous Part# general information (for reference purposes only):

http://www.richmondrc.com/vma/common/techinfocommon/b160c/summary.htm

No other information is available regarding

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

Question: My assembly manual for the 10 foot Beaver #VMA-B191C makes reference to some aileron extensions. I did not get these. What's the story? Am I missing something?

Answer: Due to the wide variation in radio connectors, servos and tolerance for different lengths of extensions we have discontinued supplying aileron extensions. Modelers should follow their radio manufacturers recommendations regarding the use of aileron extensions.

The Beaver 120ARF has been updated to incorporate a plug-in semi-symmetrical wing. Some of the screws, washers etc in the instruction book are no longer included as they are no longer needed. The wooden spar joiner has been replaced by two long round aluminum tubes that mount the wings to the fuselage.

The CG Location has not changed. The CG is as stated and is approx coincident with the thickest part of the wing about 30% back from the leading edge.

Short Term... information has been published on our external Knowledge base and will be provided as an addendum sheet with Beaver 120ARF instruction books.

Longer Term... the instruction book will be amended to reflect the upgrade and changed hardware.

The attached PDF contains important information about the original older version of the B190C Beaver 120ARF that had wood spar joiners and the wing located in a saddle in the top of the fuselage. This older model was superceded in 2004-2005 by the new B191C Beaver 120ARF that has two aluminum tube spars and a fuselage that is used with "plug in" wings.

PLEASE READ ME FIRST

BEFORE PROCEEDING TO ASSEMBLE OR OPERATE THIS PRODUCT

LIABILITY DISCLAIMER

The authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product expressly disclaim any warranties or representations, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to implied warranties of fitness, accuracy, timeliness or applicability of the information and/or product provided here. In no event will the authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product have any obligation arising from contract or tort, for loss of revenue or profit, or for indirect, special, incidental, consequential or other damages of any sort arising from this information and/or product. In using this information and/or product, the user accepts all responsibility for and all liability associated with such use.

CAUTION

A Remote Control (RC) model aircraft is not a toy. It is a flying model that functions much like a full size airplane. If you do not assemble and operate model aircraft properly you can cause injury to yourself and others and damage property. DO NOT FLY a model aircraft unless you are qualified.

You are ultimately responsible for the mechanical, aeronautical and electrical integrity of any model you fly and all of the components that make up the model including but not limited to the airframe itself, control surfaces, hinges, linkages, covering, engine, motor, radio, servos, switches, wiring, battery and parts. Check all components before and after each flight. It is essential that you act with the clear understanding that you are solely responsible for all aspects of the model at all times. DO NOT FLY until it is right.  

AVOIDING 90% of PROBLEMS that can arise:  

1. READ THE CAUTION ABOVE & READ THE LIABILITY DISCLAIMER.You are responsible for all aspects of any model you fly. You're It!
2. READ ALL DOCUMENTATION before doing anything else! 
3. INSPECT CAREFULLY immediately upon arrival!.
4. RETAIN ALL PACKAGING until the checkout is complete! If you need to return anything you must have all of the original packaging.
5. READ & LOOK! At everything! Do it once & then do it again.
6. REMEMBER WHAT "ARF" STANDS FOR. ARF means ALMOST Ready to Fly with an emphasis on ALMOST! Some assembly and modeling skills are required.
7. ALLOW ENOUGH TIME to enjoy the assembly process! Rushing into a 6 hour job with 3 hours to spare simply will not work. This is a Hobby... take your time.
8. DRY FIT & TEST ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING before you glue anything!
9. USE 30 MINUTE EPOXY when joining wings & installing stabilizers and other structural components but only after you have dry fitted and test assembled the components without glue! Once parts are glued together they cannot be unglued and they cannot be returned or replaced without charge.
10. PLAN AHEAD! BE CAREFUL! If you get into trouble, DON'T PANIC. Review everything again, talk it over with an experienced modeler and if still in difficulty consult our Support Services.
11. TEST TEST!!! TUG TUG TUG!!! EVERYTHING... BEFORE & AFTER EACH FLIGHT! Your model may have been largely pre-constructed and may have pre-installed control rods, hinges, control surfaces and many other essential components. Hinges may have been pinned after they have been installed. However, you must double check every control surface and component before and after each flight. You and only you are responsible for the integrity of all components and the integrity of the model itself. Check everything before and after each flight. Tug on control surfaces, control rods, mounting bolts, T-nuts, mounting plates... tug on everything!
12. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WING BOLTS or other fasteners. You want bolts and nuts snugly tight and if metal you can use a medium grade thread locker such as Pacer Z42 to help them stay tight. Fasteners must be snug and secure. However a model airplane is not a farm tractor or a garbage compactor. You do not need a pipe wrench or an electric drill to tighten up wing bolts or any other fastener. Leave your plumbing and power tools at home.. hand tools only and go easy on the torque... snug and secure... not stripped or torqued until they squeak or break.  Wing bolts can take tremendous torque before breaking... but when you over tighten them or use an electric screw driver on a set of wing bolts, long before the bolts break you can fracture the fuselage, crack the mounting blocks or pull the heads of the bolts through the wing... these problems have a nasty habit of revealing themselves when you least expect the wing to fall off!
13. DO NOT OVERPOWER ANY MODEL! Stay within the recommended power range for the model. If you overpower the model you run a high risk of structural failure that will lead to loss of control and a subsequent crash that will destroy the model and may cause injury and/or property damage.
14. ASSUME NOTHING! Remember the old yarn about what happens when you ASS-U-ME something. Check everything repeatedly and frequently and DO NOT FLY any model unless you are satisfied that everything is in good working order.

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20050712 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20050712 (see manual back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20050712 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20050712 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

Please see Page 6, Step 8.1 & Figure 8A. Step 8.1 and Figure 8A describe and show the dry test fitting of the vertical stabilizer into the vertical stabilizer slot in the top of the fuselage. On some early versions of the Bird Dog produced in July and August of 2005 the slot in the fuselage is slightly too deep so that the vertical stabilizer tab shown in Figure 8D does not contact the bottom of the slot when inserted into the fuselage. 

If your vertical stabilizer does not contact the bottom of the fuselage slot when inserted into the fuselage you need to rectify this with a small filler strip inserted into the fuselage slot and tacked into place with CA or other glue before installing the vertical stabilizer using 30 minute epoxy. The filler strip should be approximately 5-7mm high and the width and length of the slot. Use balsa or other light wood to make this strip. Dry fit the strip and the vertical stabilizer before gluing anything into place. The idea here is to make sure that the bottom of the vertical stabilizer tab seats firmly against the strip which in turn fills the gap in the bottom of the fuselage slot. 

This model uses POLYCOTE ECS Covering

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Check Frequently for Updates

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below. 

For those of you who may be wondering about flying a VMAR Bird Dog at High Altitude please see the general article on high altitude electric performance included further below.

---

In addition to the article included below, here is some feedback provided by a modeler flying a Bird Dog near Durango, CO at approximately 7000 feet above sea level.

He has equipped his Bird Dog as follows:

• AXI Outrunner 2808/24
• 3 Cell LiPo consisting of 2 x 2200mAh 3 cell packs in parallel for 4400 mAh total capacity.
• Using a Graupner Folding 10x6 Prop

Reports brisk reliable performance with this power system in the Bird Dog.

---

 

Question: I live at 5000 feet above sea level. What should I do to get my electric power system to perform at high altitudes as well as it does at sea level?

Answer: It's tough to get the same performance at 5000 or 8000 feet as you do at sea level but we do have a technique that will help you come close.

First of all it's important to understand a few things:

1) Unlike an internal combustion engine (i.e. glow or gas), an electric motor does not consume oxygen and hence could care less about oxygen or anything else that affects combustion.

2) An electric motor system that runs well at sea level will underperform at higher altitudes not because the air has less oxygen but because the air is thinner. Hot weather does the same thing... the air gets thinner. Hot and high together can really gang up and take a chunk out of the performance.

In order to get your electric motor system to perform in thinner air the same way it does at sea level, you may actually have to change the motor, speed control, battery pack and prop but before you go reaching for your credit card here is a technique that attacks the problem from the lowest cost component first.

1) Measure the watts that your power system consumes at sea level or other relatively low altitude location. Use a Medusa Power Analyzer or AstroFlight Whatt meter.

2) Better yet, if possible, use the Medusa Power Analyzer PRO thrust meter to measure the thrust generated and the watts consumed.

3) Now do the same measurements (1 & 2) at the higher altitude location. You will notice that your system consumes less watts and if you are able to measure thrust you will notice that you get less thrust at higher altitude than you do at lower altitude. This is because the air is thinner (less dense) at higher altitudes.

4) In order to get the thrust back up to where it was at lower altitudes you need the prop to move more of the thinner air. To do this, select a higher pitch and/or larger diameter prop for use at higher altitudes. Test again and try to find a prop that gives you the same thrust and/or watt values as you were getting on the original prop at lower altitude. If you can get the same thrust at 5000 feet as you got at sea level for example, you will have similar flight performance. Thrust is really the key here and it's best to work with thrust numbers but watts are a good relative indicator of thrust. Not perfect but still helpful!

Be cautious when testing to ensure that the motor, ESC and battery do not overheat with the new prop. Some compromising may be necessary to get good performance that does not overheat components.

In a perfect world, you would carefully select a specific motor, ESC, battery and prop to get the ideal combination for high altitude performance when installed in a particular model. Yup... perfect is best... but for those of us who can settle for a bit less than ideal and have limited budgets, changing the prop to generate similar thrust in high, hot & thinner air as you get in low, cool & thicker air is a good low cost way to go.    

Question: I have a VMAX #VMM-111B18VM VMAX Brushless Motor. What do I need in the way of mounting screws?

a) VMAX VMAX #VMM-111B18VM VMAX Brushless Motors that are supplied with VMAX Power Modules and VMAX Power Packs come pre-mounted with the appropriate screws for the motor.

 

b) The threads are 3mm and generally four 3mm x 6-12 mm machine hex head screws with washers will work.

 

c) We sell a Mounting Screw Set (#VMM-111B18MS) consisting of four 3mm x 10mm hex head screws. Hex head screws should be used with flat washers under the heads.

 

d) We also sell a Mounting Screw Set (#VMM-111B18MT) consisting of 16 mounting screws. Four screws in each of four different sizes/styles.

• 3 x 10 mm Hex head machine screws (4) (like VMM-111B18MS)
• 3 x 16 mm Hex head machine screws (4) (longer version of above)
• 3 x   6 mm Phillips countersink head screws (4) (for flush fitting)
• 3 x 10 mm Phillips countersink head screws (4) (for flush fitting) 

The four different sizes/styles allow for thicker firewalls, multi-layer firewalls where the screw heads must be countersunk between the layers, etc.

 

This set provides for a very wide range of different mounting methods.

 

Hex head screws should be used with flat washers under the heads.

Wrench and Socket Head sizes for the VMAR Bird Dog power module hardware are as follows:

For the Prop Nuts 7/32"

For the Power Module nuts (that fit on the four threaded studs that attach the firewall to fhe fuselage) 7/32" deep socket

For the four black machine screws that go through the firewall and thread into tapped holes in the motor mount (backing plate) 2.5mm Allen Wrench

For the 2 or 3 black grub screws that retain the motor into the backing plate are accessed via the slot between the motor the backing plate 1.5 mm Allen Wrench.

Question: When I am mounting wing servos in the VMAR Bird Dog, the wing strut attachment point washer is in the way of the mounting tab on one of the servos. What do I do?

Solution: This is easy to fix. Use a sharp #11 Xacto blade to knotch out the wooden washer as shown in the picture below. Takes about 15 seconds and you'll be good to go.

Note that this notching is only required where the strut washer and servo are in contact. This appears only to be an issue on production models up to November 2005.

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

Question: Where is the horizontal thrust line on the VMAR Chipmunk 40 ARF removeable firewall?

Answer: The VMAR Chipmunk 40 ARF horizontal thrust line is 1-13/32" down from the top of the firewall.

Better Answer: The VMAR Chipmunk 40 ARF horizontal thrust line is 1-13/32" down from the top of the firewall. It can also be estimated by locating the cowl correctly on the fuselage and then drawing the horizontal thrust line so that it appears to pass midway through the crankshaft hole in the front of the cowl.

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

PLEASE READ ME FIRST

BEFORE PROCEEDING TO ASSEMBLE OR OPERATE THIS PRODUCT

LIABILITY DISCLAIMER

The authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product expressly disclaim any warranties or representations, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to implied warranties of fitness, accuracy, timeliness or applicability of the information and/or product provided here. In no event will the authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product have any obligation arising from contract or tort, for loss of revenue or profit, or for indirect, special, incidental, consequential or other damages of any sort arising from this information and/or product. In using this information and/or product, the user accepts all responsibility for and all liability associated with such use.

CAUTION

A Remote Control (RC) model aircraft is not a toy. It is a flying model that functions much like a full size airplane. If you do not assemble and operate model aircraft properly you can cause injury to yourself and others and damage property. DO NOT FLY a model aircraft unless you are qualified.

You are ultimately responsible for the mechanical, aeronautical and electrical integrity of any model you fly and all of the components that make up the model including but not limited to the airframe itself, control surfaces, hinges, linkages, covering, engine, motor, radio, servos, switches, wiring, battery and parts. Check all components before and after each flight. It is essential that you act with the clear understanding that you are solely responsible for all aspects of the model at all times. DO NOT FLY until it is right.  

AVOIDING 90% of PROBLEMS that can arise:  

1. READ THE CAUTION ABOVE & READ THE LIABILITY DISCLAIMER.You are responsible for all aspects of any model you fly. You're It!
2. READ ALL DOCUMENTATION before doing anything else! 
3. INSPECT CAREFULLY immediately upon arrival!.
4. RETAIN ALL PACKAGING until the checkout is complete! If you need to return anything you must have all of the original packaging.
5. READ & LOOK! At everything! Do it once & then do it again.
6. REMEMBER WHAT "ARF" STANDS FOR. ARF means ALMOST Ready to Fly with an emphasis on ALMOST! Some assembly and modeling skills are required.
7. ALLOW ENOUGH TIME to enjoy the assembly process! Rushing into a 6 hour job with 3 hours to spare simply will not work. This is a Hobby... take your time.
8. DRY FIT & TEST ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING before you glue anything!
9. USE 30 MINUTE EPOXY when joining wings & installing stabilizers and other structural components but only after you have dry fitted and test assembled the components without glue! Once parts are glued together they cannot be unglued and they cannot be returned or replaced without charge.
10. PLAN AHEAD! BE CAREFUL! If you get into trouble, DON'T PANIC. Review everything again, talk it over with an experienced modeler and if still in difficulty consult our Support Services.
11. TEST TEST!!! TUG TUG TUG!!! EVERYTHING... BEFORE & AFTER EACH FLIGHT! Your model may have been largely pre-constructed and may have pre-installed control rods, hinges, control surfaces and many other essential components. Hinges may have been pinned after they have been installed. However, you must double check every control surface and component before and after each flight. You and only you are responsible for the integrity of all components and the integrity of the model itself. Check everything before and after each flight. Tug on control surfaces, control rods, mounting bolts, T-nuts, mounting plates... tug on everything!
12. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WING BOLTS or other fasteners. You want bolts and nuts snugly tight and if metal you can use a medium grade thread locker such as Pacer Z42 to help them stay tight. Fasteners must be snug and secure. However a model airplane is not a farm tractor or a garbage compactor. You do not need a pipe wrench or an electric drill to tighten up wing bolts or any other fastener. Leave your plumbing and power tools at home.. hand tools only and go easy on the torque... snug and secure... not stripped or torqued until they squeak or break.  Wing bolts can take tremendous torque before breaking... but when you over tighten them or use an electric screw driver on a set of wing bolts, long before the bolts break you can fracture the fuselage, crack the mounting blocks or pull the heads of the bolts through the wing... these problems have a nasty habit of revealing themselves when you least expect the wing to fall off!
13. DO NOT OVERPOWER ANY MODEL! Stay within the recommended power range for the model. If you overpower the model you run a high risk of structural failure that will lead to loss of control and a subsequent crash that will destroy the model and may cause injury and/or property damage.
14. ASSUME NOTHING! Remember the old yarn about what happens when you ASS-U-ME something. Check everything repeatedly and frequently and DO NOT FLY any model unless you are satisfied that everything is in good working order.

Question: My VMAR VMA-C210X 09-15 ARF was supplied with control horns that appear to be made of wood. Are these OK? 

Answer: Yes these are laser cut from aircraft plywood and are strong, light, reliable and easy to install. In some later production J3 Cub and L4 Grasshoppers the horns are laser cut from Mylar sheets.

Additional Information:  After installing the control horns made from plywood, we recommend wicking thin CA such as Pacer ZAP (Pink) into the plywood of the control horn to "harden" the plywood and holes. Do two applications about 1 minute apart.

This model uses POLYCOTE ECS Covering

On Line, eMail, Fax, Phone, Mail

• Visit us at support.kbase.ca
  • > Support
  • > Click on and choose from...  

• Knowledge Base 24x7x365 - Immediate On Line Self Help [How To]    
• Submit a Question. [How To]             
  • Get a response within 2 Business Days
• Price Lists & More - Printable PDF's for Download   
• Contact Us. 
  • To reach us by email, fax, phone or mail.
  • Get a response within 4 Business Days
• Join our Mailing List - Sign up Now  
  • Best way to get periodic email Announcements of New Products, Sales, Promotions etc
  • We do NOT release your information to third parties.
• Replacement Parts.      
  • We stock an extensive offering of replacement parts
• Shipping Information.   [How To]
• Track UPS shipments in the U.S.
• UPS Delivery times across the U.S.

For Sales and other Inquiries  

Technical Inquiries:

Please review the information provided in our Knowledge Base. After checking our Knowledge Base, if you need further assistance please use our Submit A Question service to get a response within 2 Business Days.

Sales Inquiries: 

Please note that our Sales Department personnel are trained and dedicated to:

• Helping you with non-technical pre-purchase questions,
• Helping you place your order,
• Pointing out any sales, combos or specials that you may wish to consider,
• Inputting your order to our computer system so that it ships out as accurately and quickly as possible... usually the same day,  
• Resolving any invoicing problems, and
• Helping to sort out any missing shipment or shipment damage issues.

• From a Retailer
• Please support your local retailer.    
• On Line 24x7x365... if your favorite Retailer does not have what you are looking for, please visit one of our On-Line Stores. 
• www.richmondrc.com
• For Radio Control,
• For ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue & epoxies
• www.supplystore.com
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue, epoxies, related accessories and more to End Users & Consumers in the Building Construction, Repair & Maintenance Trades. Also Fine Woodworkers, Stagecraft Artisans, Professional Detailers, Sportsmen & Scale Model Builders.
• www.zapglue.ca
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacrylates, superglue, epoxies and related accessories to End Users & Consumers in the Industrial, Manufacturing, Assembly and Laboratory sectors.
• Order By Fax 24x7x365
• 604-940-1063
• Order By Phone M-F 11am-4pm Pacific Time
• Order Desk 604-940-1066    

For All Other Inquiries... please consult the following resources:

• On Line Information
• Please visit www.kbase.ca
• On Line Support Services
• Please visit support.kbase.ca and follow the links 

• After reviewing our On Line resources, if you require additional assistance please contact us by eMail, fax, phone or mail as follows:

• Ask a Question
• Use our Submit A Question service
• eMail 
  • sales@richmondrc.com
• Fax
  • 604-940-1063
• Phone
  • 604-940-1066
• Mail
• Richmond RC Supply Ltd, #114 - 7350 72nd Street, Delta, BC, V4G-1H9
• Mail & printed correspondence only.                
• We are not able to accomodate personal site visits or drop-offs/pick-ups at this location.
• Please note that all inbound Shipments require pre-Authorization in advance.
• Unauthorized inbound shipments will be refused.        

Check Frequently for Updates

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

Question: I travel a great deal and take my VMAR C210X 09-15 ARF with me in my RV. When I'm home, I remove the wing and undo the struts from the fuselage. But when I am travelling I like to remove the struts from the wing as well. I've been undoing the screws and it works OK but I was wondering if you have a strut set that can be removed more easily and quickly for traveling?

Answer: Yes we do. For modelers who need to frequently remove the wing struts from the VMAR C210X 09-15 ARF, we have released a new Quick Release Strut Set. For the J3 Cub these struts are Yellow (#VMA-C210YWSQ) and for the L4 Grasshopper these struts are Drab Green (VMA-C210DWSQ). The quick release struts are easier to install and can be removed more quickly that the standard struts. Colored to match the model, the quick release struts use Z-Bend ends for the wing attachment points (2 per strut) instead of using screws and brass plates.

Fitting the quick release strut set requires minor modification to the wing attachment points (4).

Instructions for modifying the wing attachment points:

1. Wick CA into & around the 4 plywood washers where the struts attach to the wings.
2. Use a 3/32" drill bit to enlarge the screw holes at the attachment points.
3. Use a 7/64" drill bit to further enlarge the screw holes to 50% depth.
4. Test fit the struts and then remove them.
5. Wick thin CA into the drill holes to toughen the wood or if the strut Z-bends become loose in the holes.  

Caution: be careful with drilling. Don't drill through the wing or your fingers!

Question: I have a VMAX #VMM-111B18VM VMAX Brushless Motor. What do I need in the way of mounting screws?

a) VMAX VMAX #VMM-111B18VM VMAX Brushless Motors that are supplied with VMAX Power Modules and VMAX Power Packs come pre-mounted with the appropriate screws for the motor.

 

b) The threads are 3mm and generally four 3mm x 6-12 mm machine hex head screws with washers will work.

 

c) We sell a Mounting Screw Set (#VMM-111B18MS) consisting of four 3mm x 10mm hex head screws. Hex head screws should be used with flat washers under the heads.

 

d) We also sell a Mounting Screw Set (#VMM-111B18MT) consisting of 16 mounting screws. Four screws in each of four different sizes/styles.

• 3 x 10 mm Hex head machine screws (4) (like VMM-111B18MS)
• 3 x 16 mm Hex head machine screws (4) (longer version of above)
• 3 x   6 mm Phillips countersink head screws (4) (for flush fitting)
• 3 x 10 mm Phillips countersink head screws (4) (for flush fitting) 

The four different sizes/styles allow for thicker firewalls, multi-layer firewalls where the screw heads must be countersunk between the layers, etc.

 

This set provides for a very wide range of different mounting methods.

 

Hex head screws should be used with flat washers under the heads.

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

Question: Is the VMAR Corsair 60 ARF Retract Ready?

Answer: No

Better Answer: The Corsair comes with fixed gear. It was not designed with retracts in mind and no provision for retracts has been made. It is not retract ready. A great deal of work on the wings and wing structure would be required by modelers if they wish to install retracts in the VMAR Corsair. We have not designed the wing to accept retracts and do not recommend modifying the wing to accept retracts.

More Information about #ZBO-Y190611B ... BLOWOUT - VMAR CORSAIR 60 SEMISCALE ARF -  FINAL SALE 

This is a BLOWOUT... FINAL SALE item and the following caution applies: 

If you are able to build, repair, supply hardware for, assemble and set up without assistance you can save money buying a BLOWOUT item. If you are not able to perform these functions without assistance, you should NOT NOT NOT purchase a BLOWOUT item. Assume that work will be required and that some or all hardware and documentation will be missing. Shipping by Ground to USA and Canada only. Subject To Change Without Notice.

Without negating the caution above, we can provide the following additional information about this particular item:

Overall Condition:	"New In Box"
Color:	Blue (USA Marines)
Fuselage:	Included.
Wing:	Included.
Horizontal Stabilizer:	Included.
Vertical Stabilizer:	Included.
Cowl:	Included.
Parts Bag:	Included.
Previous Part#:	VMA-E260U

Previous Part# general information (for reference purposes only):

http://www.richmondrc.com/vma/common/techinfocommon/c260u/summary.htm

No other information is available regarding #ZBO-Y190611B  BLOWOUT - VMAR CORSAIR 60 SEMISCALE ARF - FINAL SALE. 

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

Question: In the instruction manual for the VMAR Cessna 182 45-60 ARF ECS it says to align to the thrust line with the engine "sharp". This is confusing and I don't understand this. What does this mean?

Answer: This is a misprint. It is supposed to say "shaft" not "sharp" as in align the thrust line with the engine shaft and specifically refers to the center of the engine shaft.

Supplementary Information: Here are some additional articles that may be helpful.

Question: I am installing my engine. Where are the thrust lines on the firewall?

Answer: The horizontal thrust line normally appears on the forward face of the firewall or you draw the horizontal thrust line on the forward face of the firewall yourself following location instructions contained in the documentation that came with your model.

If there is no horizontal line indicated on the firewall and you are unable to locate the location of the line in the reference material there is an easy way to position the horiztonal thrust line youself. To do this, fit your cowl over the fuselage. Look at the cowl from the left and right sides and adjust the vertical angle of the cowl to align with the fuselage. There should not be any sharp drop or rise in the silhouette profile of the fuselage as you move your eye along the fuselage and over the cowl. Once you have the cowl in place, look through the front hole where the crankshaft is going to protrude. Mark the horizontal thrust line on the firewall so that it is evenly located up and down with respect to the hole in the front of the cowl.

The vertical thrust line lies up and down through the middle of the firewall. If it is not shown, you can simply draw it into place. Make sure it is in the middle.

You may also find this information on our web site. Look for the links to your model, then the link to the detailed information and browse down to the engine section. The position of the horizontal and/or vertical thrust line may be stated there.

Question: How do I position my engine on the engine mounts and on the firewall when I intend on installing the engine at an angle or inverted rather than upright?

Short Answer: Regardless of orientation, the center line of the crankshaft must be positioned over the intersection of the vertical and horizontal thrust lines for your particular model. There are a few exceptions as described below.

Better Answer: Some models pretty much force you to install your engine in an upright orientation. Other models, particularly once you move up from basic trainers, offer you a variety of engine orientation options. Rotated 90 degrees is one such choice that often works well with Pitts style mufflers...  inverted (sometimes called 180 degree rotation) is another choice. Generally these non-upright orientations, hide more of the engine and muffler and result in a more realistic scale like appearance to the model.

The choice of what angle to use is pretty much up to you, limited by the physical size of the engine, muffler, cowl etc. Some engines for example can be oriented at 90 or 135 degrees but run into a physical problem at other angles... they hit something, the muffler won't clear the fuselage, the needle valve is at an awkward location etc. When selecting an angle to mount your engine, you have to balance off appearance, convenience, practicality and most of all make sure it can physically fit. Don't forget to test your planned installation angle with the muffler and carb installed. Also check out your engine manual for any specific guidance from the engine manufacturer. Some manufacturers don't recommend an exactly inverted 180 degree installation. We have found this to be good advice in many cases... 180 degree inversions have a tendency to smother the glow plug in oil and residue if run at low RPM for too long.

Once you've decided on the installation orientation that you want, the actual position of the engine on the firewall is no different with a rotated engine than it is with an upright engine. The engine thrust is always centered around the crankshaft and regardless of orientation, the center line of the crankshaft must be positioned over the intersection of the vertical and horizontal thrust lines for your particular model. The vertical thrust line lies up and down through the middle of the firewall. The horizontal thrust line is often drawn on the firewall or is to be draw on the firewall by you after referencing location information in the model instruction manual.  

There are some exceptions but the exceptions are few and far between... if the mounting face of the engine mounting lugs is offset from the center line of the crankshaft you have to adjust accordingly. This is rare, we have not seen this in standard two stroke engines. Engine manufacturers avoid this if at all possible. If you are working with a large gas engine adapted from another industry or a multi piston engine, examine the mounting system carefully and make sure you understand the relation between the engine mounting lugs and the center line of the crankshaft.

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

20200415

PLEASE READ ME FIRST

BEFORE PROCEEDING TO ASSEMBLE OR OPERATE THIS PRODUCT

LIABILITY DISCLAIMER

The authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product expressly disclaim any warranties or representations, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to implied warranties of fitness, accuracy, timeliness or applicability of the information and/or product provided here. In no event will the authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product have any obligation arising from contract or tort, for loss of revenue or profit, or for indirect, special, incidental, consequential or other damages of any sort arising from this information and/or product. In using this information and/or product, the user accepts all responsibility for and all liability associated with such use.

CAUTION

A Remote Control (RC) model aircraft is not a toy. It is a flying model that functions much like a full size airplane. If you do not assemble and operate model aircraft properly you can cause injury to yourself and others and damage property. DO NOT FLY a model aircraft unless you are qualified.

You are ultimately responsible for the mechanical, aeronautical and electrical integrity of any model you fly and all of the components that make up the model including but not limited to the airframe itself, control surfaces, hinges, linkages, covering, engine, motor, radio, servos, switches, wiring, battery and parts. Check all components before and after each flight. It is essential that you act with the clear understanding that you are solely responsible for all aspects of the model at all times. DO NOT FLY until it is right.  

AVOIDING 90% of PROBLEMS that can arise:  

1. READ THE CAUTION ABOVE & READ THE LIABILITY DISCLAIMER.You are responsible for all aspects of any model you fly. You're It!
2. READ ALL DOCUMENTATION before doing anything else! 
3. INSPECT CAREFULLY immediately upon arrival!.
4. RETAIN ALL PACKAGING until the checkout is complete! If you need to return anything you must have all of the original packaging.
5. READ & LOOK! At everything! Do it once & then do it again.
6. REMEMBER WHAT "ARF" STANDS FOR. ARF means ALMOST Ready to Fly with an emphasis on ALMOST! Some assembly and modeling skills are required.
7. ALLOW ENOUGH TIME to enjoy the assembly process! Rushing into a 6 hour job with 3 hours to spare simply will not work. This is a Hobby... take your time.
8. DRY FIT & TEST ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING before you glue anything!
9. USE 30 MINUTE EPOXY when joining wings & installing stabilizers and other structural components but only after you have dry fitted and test assembled the components without glue! Once parts are glued together they cannot be unglued and they cannot be returned or replaced without charge.
10. PLAN AHEAD! BE CAREFUL! If you get into trouble, DON'T PANIC. Review everything again, talk it over with an experienced modeler and if still in difficulty consult our Support Services.
11. TEST TEST!!! TUG TUG TUG!!! EVERYTHING... BEFORE & AFTER EACH FLIGHT! Your model may have been largely pre-constructed and may have pre-installed control rods, hinges, control surfaces and many other essential components. Hinges may have been pinned after they have been installed. However, you must double check every control surface and component before and after each flight. You and only you are responsible for the integrity of all components and the integrity of the model itself. Check everything before and after each flight. Tug on control surfaces, control rods, mounting bolts, T-nuts, mounting plates... tug on everything!
12. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WING BOLTS or other fasteners. You want bolts and nuts snugly tight and if metal you can use a medium grade thread locker such as Pacer Z42 to help them stay tight. Fasteners must be snug and secure. However a model airplane is not a farm tractor or a garbage compactor. You do not need a pipe wrench or an electric drill to tighten up wing bolts or any other fastener. Leave your plumbing and power tools at home.. hand tools only and go easy on the torque... snug and secure... not stripped or torqued until they squeak or break.  Wing bolts can take tremendous torque before breaking... but when you over tighten them or use an electric screw driver on a set of wing bolts, long before the bolts break you can fracture the fuselage, crack the mounting blocks or pull the heads of the bolts through the wing... these problems have a nasty habit of revealing themselves when you least expect the wing to fall off!
13. DO NOT OVERPOWER ANY MODEL! Stay within the recommended power range for the model. If you overpower the model you run a high risk of structural failure that will lead to loss of control and a subsequent crash that will destroy the model and may cause injury and/or property damage.
14. ASSUME NOTHING! Remember the old yarn about what happens when you ASS-U-ME something. Check everything repeatedly and frequently and DO NOT FLY any model unless you are satisfied that everything is in good working order.

This model uses POLYCOTE ECS Covering

On Line, eMail, Fax, Phone, Mail

• Visit us at support.kbase.ca
  • > Support
  • > Click on and choose from...  

• Knowledge Base 24x7x365 - Immediate On Line Self Help [How To]    
• Submit a Question. [How To]             
  • Get a response within 2 Business Days
• Price Lists & More - Printable PDF's for Download   
• Contact Us. 
  • To reach us by email, fax, phone or mail.
  • Get a response within 4 Business Days
• Join our Mailing List - Sign up Now  
  • Best way to get periodic email Announcements of New Products, Sales, Promotions etc
  • We do NOT release your information to third parties.
• Replacement Parts.      
  • We stock an extensive offering of replacement parts
• Shipping Information.   [How To]
• Track UPS shipments in the U.S.
• UPS Delivery times across the U.S.

For Sales and other Inquiries  

Technical Inquiries:

Please review the information provided in our Knowledge Base. After checking our Knowledge Base, if you need further assistance please use our Submit A Question service to get a response within 2 Business Days.

Sales Inquiries: 

Please note that our Sales Department personnel are trained and dedicated to:

• Helping you with non-technical pre-purchase questions,
• Helping you place your order,
• Pointing out any sales, combos or specials that you may wish to consider,
• Inputting your order to our computer system so that it ships out as accurately and quickly as possible... usually the same day,  
• Resolving any invoicing problems, and
• Helping to sort out any missing shipment or shipment damage issues.

• From a Retailer
• Please support your local retailer.    
• On Line 24x7x365... if your favorite Retailer does not have what you are looking for, please visit one of our On-Line Stores. 
• www.richmondrc.com
• For Radio Control,
• For ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue & epoxies
• www.supplystore.com
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue, epoxies, related accessories and more to End Users & Consumers in the Building Construction, Repair & Maintenance Trades. Also Fine Woodworkers, Stagecraft Artisans, Professional Detailers, Sportsmen & Scale Model Builders.
• www.zapglue.ca
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacrylates, superglue, epoxies and related accessories to End Users & Consumers in the Industrial, Manufacturing, Assembly and Laboratory sectors.
• Order By Fax 24x7x365
• 604-940-1063
• Order By Phone M-F 11am-4pm Pacific Time
• Order Desk 604-940-1066    

For All Other Inquiries... please consult the following resources:

• On Line Information
• Please visit www.kbase.ca
• On Line Support Services
• Please visit support.kbase.ca and follow the links 

• After reviewing our On Line resources, if you require additional assistance please contact us by eMail, fax, phone or mail as follows:

• Ask a Question
• Use our Submit A Question service
• eMail 
  • sales@richmondrc.com
• Fax
  • 604-940-1063
• Phone
  • 604-940-1066
• Mail
• Richmond RC Supply Ltd, #114 - 7350 72nd Street, Delta, BC, V4G-1H9
• Mail & printed correspondence only.                
• We are not able to accomodate personal site visits or drop-offs/pick-ups at this location.
• Please note that all inbound Shipments require pre-Authorization in advance.
• Unauthorized inbound shipments will be refused.        

Check Frequently for Updates

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

Question: I have a VMAX #VMM-111B18VM VMAX Brushless Motor. What do I need in the way of mounting screws?

a) VMAX VMAX #VMM-111B18VM VMAX Brushless Motors that are supplied with VMAX Power Modules and VMAX Power Packs come pre-mounted with the appropriate screws for the motor.

 

b) The threads are 3mm and generally four 3mm x 6-12 mm machine hex head screws with washers will work.

 

c) We sell a Mounting Screw Set (#VMM-111B18MS) consisting of four 3mm x 10mm hex head screws. Hex head screws should be used with flat washers under the heads.

 

d) We also sell a Mounting Screw Set (#VMM-111B18MT) consisting of 16 mounting screws. Four screws in each of four different sizes/styles.

• 3 x 10 mm Hex head machine screws (4) (like VMM-111B18MS)
• 3 x 16 mm Hex head machine screws (4) (longer version of above)
• 3 x   6 mm Phillips countersink head screws (4) (for flush fitting)
• 3 x 10 mm Phillips countersink head screws (4) (for flush fitting) 

The four different sizes/styles allow for thicker firewalls, multi-layer firewalls where the screw heads must be countersunk between the layers, etc.

 

This set provides for a very wide range of different mounting methods.

 

Hex head screws should be used with flat washers under the heads.

PLEASE READ ME FIRST

BEFORE PROCEEDING TO ASSEMBLE OR OPERATE THIS PRODUCT

LIABILITY DISCLAIMER

The authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product expressly disclaim any warranties or representations, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to implied warranties of fitness, accuracy, timeliness or applicability of the information and/or product provided here. In no event will the authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product have any obligation arising from contract or tort, for loss of revenue or profit, or for indirect, special, incidental, consequential or other damages of any sort arising from this information and/or product. In using this information and/or product, the user accepts all responsibility for and all liability associated with such use.

CAUTION

A Remote Control (RC) model aircraft is not a toy. It is a flying model that functions much like a full size airplane. If you do not assemble and operate model aircraft properly you can cause injury to yourself and others and damage property. DO NOT FLY a model aircraft unless you are qualified.

You are ultimately responsible for the mechanical, aeronautical and electrical integrity of any model you fly and all of the components that make up the model including but not limited to the airframe itself, control surfaces, hinges, linkages, covering, engine, motor, radio, servos, switches, wiring, battery and parts. Check all components before and after each flight. It is essential that you act with the clear understanding that you are solely responsible for all aspects of the model at all times. DO NOT FLY until it is right.  

AVOIDING 90% of PROBLEMS that can arise:  

1. READ THE CAUTION ABOVE & READ THE LIABILITY DISCLAIMER.You are responsible for all aspects of any model you fly. You're It!
2. READ ALL DOCUMENTATION before doing anything else! 
3. INSPECT CAREFULLY immediately upon arrival!.
4. RETAIN ALL PACKAGING until the checkout is complete! If you need to return anything you must have all of the original packaging.
5. READ & LOOK! At everything! Do it once & then do it again.
6. REMEMBER WHAT "ARF" STANDS FOR. ARF means ALMOST Ready to Fly with an emphasis on ALMOST! Some assembly and modeling skills are required.
7. ALLOW ENOUGH TIME to enjoy the assembly process! Rushing into a 6 hour job with 3 hours to spare simply will not work. This is a Hobby... take your time.
8. DRY FIT & TEST ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING before you glue anything!
9. USE 30 MINUTE EPOXY when joining wings & installing stabilizers and other structural components but only after you have dry fitted and test assembled the components without glue! Once parts are glued together they cannot be unglued and they cannot be returned or replaced without charge.
10. PLAN AHEAD! BE CAREFUL! If you get into trouble, DON'T PANIC. Review everything again, talk it over with an experienced modeler and if still in difficulty consult our Support Services.
11. TEST TEST!!! TUG TUG TUG!!! EVERYTHING... BEFORE & AFTER EACH FLIGHT! Your model may have been largely pre-constructed and may have pre-installed control rods, hinges, control surfaces and many other essential components. Hinges may have been pinned after they have been installed. However, you must double check every control surface and component before and after each flight. You and only you are responsible for the integrity of all components and the integrity of the model itself. Check everything before and after each flight. Tug on control surfaces, control rods, mounting bolts, T-nuts, mounting plates... tug on everything!
12. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WING BOLTS or other fasteners. You want bolts and nuts snugly tight and if metal you can use a medium grade thread locker such as Pacer Z42 to help them stay tight. Fasteners must be snug and secure. However a model airplane is not a farm tractor or a garbage compactor. You do not need a pipe wrench or an electric drill to tighten up wing bolts or any other fastener. Leave your plumbing and power tools at home.. hand tools only and go easy on the torque... snug and secure... not stripped or torqued until they squeak or break.  Wing bolts can take tremendous torque before breaking... but when you over tighten them or use an electric screw driver on a set of wing bolts, long before the bolts break you can fracture the fuselage, crack the mounting blocks or pull the heads of the bolts through the wing... these problems have a nasty habit of revealing themselves when you least expect the wing to fall off!
13. DO NOT OVERPOWER ANY MODEL! Stay within the recommended power range for the model. If you overpower the model you run a high risk of structural failure that will lead to loss of control and a subsequent crash that will destroy the model and may cause injury and/or property damage.
14. ASSUME NOTHING! Remember the old yarn about what happens when you ASS-U-ME something. Check everything repeatedly and frequently and DO NOT FLY any model unless you are satisfied that everything is in good working order.

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20030321 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

Please note that this model has ailerons located outboard on the wings and flaps located inboard on the wings. The ailerons are activated by a servo in the bottom of each wing. The flaps are optional and will require two servos located in the more inboard wing cavities.  

Question: How are VMAR control horns installed? 

Answer: VMAR control horns are unique. They work better and are easier to install. They do not look like most of the control horns you have seen before and you may not recognize them for what they are or you may think they are missing. They are in the control horn parts bag &/or wing parts bag  inside the master bag of hardware and consist of a metal bolt, metal nut, beveled white plastic washer, a white plastic T-nut and the white plastic control horn itself that connects to a clevis or rod.

The iillustration below and to the left shows a control horn set before installation. Note 5 parts make up the set. In Light Duty applications the Metal Nut may not be included and only 4 parts will make up the set. The illustration below and to the right shows a control horn set partially installed. Although illustrations in various manuals show the bevelled washer with the bevel pointing away from the surface we find that we get a cleaner strong installation with the bevel pointing inwards.

We recommend wicking thin CA such as Pacer ZAP/CA (Pink) into the exposed wood surrounding the hole in the control surface. This helps further strengthen the wood. This is not a requirement but if you are pushing the power limits or planning on extreme aerobatics or speeds, the extra strength could come in handy. Use two applications of thin CA 1 minute apart, BEFORE installing the control horn.

The illustration below shows horn side view of a control horn set fully installed. The illustration to the left is a lighter duty application without the metal nut. The illustration to the right shows a heavier duty application with the metal nut installed. If the metal nuts have been supplied with the horns, we recommend using them.  

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20030321 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20030321 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20030321 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

Please see Page 4, Stage 5, Figures 5.1 and 5.2

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20030321 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20030321 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

Please see Page 4, Stage 5, Figures 5.1 and 5.2

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20030321 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

Please see Page 4, Stage 5, Figures 5.1 and 5.2

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20030321 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

This model uses POLYCOTE ECS Covering

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For Sales and other Inquiries  

Technical Inquiries:

Please review the information provided in our Knowledge Base. After checking our Knowledge Base, if you need further assistance please use our Submit A Question service to get a response within 2 Business Days.

Sales Inquiries: 

Please note that our Sales Department personnel are trained and dedicated to:

• Helping you with non-technical pre-purchase questions,
• Helping you place your order,
• Pointing out any sales, combos or specials that you may wish to consider,
• Inputting your order to our computer system so that it ships out as accurately and quickly as possible... usually the same day,  
• Resolving any invoicing problems, and
• Helping to sort out any missing shipment or shipment damage issues.

• From a Retailer
• Please support your local retailer.    
• On Line 24x7x365... if your favorite Retailer does not have what you are looking for, please visit one of our On-Line Stores. 
• www.richmondrc.com
• For Radio Control,
• For ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue & epoxies
• www.supplystore.com
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue, epoxies, related accessories and more to End Users & Consumers in the Building Construction, Repair & Maintenance Trades. Also Fine Woodworkers, Stagecraft Artisans, Professional Detailers, Sportsmen & Scale Model Builders.
• www.zapglue.ca
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacrylates, superglue, epoxies and related accessories to End Users & Consumers in the Industrial, Manufacturing, Assembly and Laboratory sectors.
• Order By Fax 24x7x365
• 604-940-1063
• Order By Phone M-F 11am-4pm Pacific Time
• Order Desk 604-940-1066    

For All Other Inquiries... please consult the following resources:

• On Line Information
• Please visit www.kbase.ca
• On Line Support Services
• Please visit support.kbase.ca and follow the links 

• After reviewing our On Line resources, if you require additional assistance please contact us by eMail, fax, phone or mail as follows:

• Ask a Question
• Use our Submit A Question service
• eMail 
  • sales@richmondrc.com
• Fax
  • 604-940-1063
• Phone
  • 604-940-1066
• Mail
• Richmond RC Supply Ltd, #114 - 7350 72nd Street, Delta, BC, V4G-1H9
• Mail & printed correspondence only.                
• We are not able to accomodate personal site visits or drop-offs/pick-ups at this location.
• Please note that all inbound Shipments require pre-Authorization in advance.
• Unauthorized inbound shipments will be refused.        

Check Frequently for Updates

Please see guidance attached.pdf.

More Information about #ZBO-Y190605A ... BLOWOUT - VMAR EXTRA 300L 40 ARF - FINAL SALE 

This is a BLOWOUT... FINAL SALE item and the following caution applies: 

If you are able to build, repair, supply hardware for, assemble and set up without assistance you can save money buying a BLOWOUT item. If you are not able to perform these functions without assistance, you should NOT NOT NOT purchase a BLOWOUT item. Assume that work will be required and that some or all hardware and documentation will be missing. Shipping by Ground to USA and Canada only. Subject To Change Without Notice.

Without negating the caution above, we can provide the following additional information about this particular item:

Overall Condition:	"New In Box"
Color:	Blue Trim on White Base.
Fuselage:	Included.
Wing:	Included.
Horizontal Stabilizer:	Included.
Vertical Stabilizer:	Included.
Cowl:	Included.
Parts Bag:	Included.
Previous Part#:	VMA-E0014

Previous Part# general information (for reference purposes only):

http://www.richmondrc.com/vma/common/techinfocommon/e0014/summary.htm

No other information is available regarding #ZBO-Y190605A  BLOWOUT - VMAR EXTRA 300L 40 ARF - FINAL SALE. 

We have received a some feedback re the firewalls on the VMAR Model Engine Test Stand being loose. This is a hazardous situation and users are cautioned to ensure that the Firewalls are not loose and do not become loose during operation.

Resolution:

In Brief: Review the safety instructions in the instruction book. Wear eye protection and stay well clear of the propellor and ahead of the propeller. See Page 10 Section 3.2.2 of the instruction book and note the importance of keeping the firewalls fitting SNUGLY between the steel beams. Tighten the bolts, apply the extra locking nuts to each bolt and check bolt and firewall tightness frequently. Reduce vibration.

In Detail: Firstly review the safety instructions. Wear eye protection and stay well clear of the propellor and ahead of the propeller.  The cinch bolts should be firmly tightened during assembly and the extra locking nuts should be applied to help keep the bolts from backing off under vibration. Everything possible should be done to reduce vibration when running an engine in the test stand... balance the propellor and the spinner... tighten the engine hold down clamps and engine mount bolts and firmly screw or clamp the entire Model Engine Test Stand to a heavy bench or other suitable surface before operating. Check and watch for any loosening of the cinch bolts, locking nuts, engine clamps, firewalls or other fasteners. Stop the engine if anything appears to be loosening up or appears visually blurry when you are looking at it. Do NOT operate the engine test stand unattended!

Question: I have a VMAR Edge 540T and I notice that the parts check off list for some of the minor hardware does not match what I received in the kit. What is going on?

Answer: The parts in the Edge 540T are correct but the checkoff list is wrong.

Better Answer: We fouled up when printing the instruction book. The instruction book is correct in and of itself but the component check off list was copied from a model without plug in wings. The Edge 540T has plug in wings and therefore some of the parts like the wing joiner, dowels etc are not required on this model and are not included.

Question: I found two plastic pieces that appear to match the shape of the wing roots. What are these for?

Answer: These are a bonus component that was added to this model. Usually they appear on one "sheet" of plastic and can be cut out and mounted by the modeler after assembly. These are wing root fairings or covers and serve to provide a cleaner seal between the wing roots and the sides of the fuselage. They can be cut a bit large initially and then trimmed to fit.

Supplementary Information: Are they absolutely necessary? No they are not. They provide a better seal and look nice but they are not mandatory for flight.

What adhesive should I use to mount these? Always test any adhesive on a small out of view area of any painted or plastic component before proceeding. We generally recommend Pacer Dap-A-Goo for this type of component in this type of application. Dap-A-Goo is a silicone like material that has a solvent base rather than acetic acid and it dries quickly, fuel proof, relatively clear and best of all it sticks to just about any plastic and stays slightly flexible. Remember... ALWAYS TEST FIRST!

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below. 

PLEASE READ ME FIRST

BEFORE PROCEEDING TO ASSEMBLE OR OPERATE THIS PRODUCT

LIABILITY DISCLAIMER

The authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product expressly disclaim any warranties or representations, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to implied warranties of fitness, accuracy, timeliness or applicability of the information and/or product provided here. In no event will the authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product have any obligation arising from contract or tort, for loss of revenue or profit, or for indirect, special, incidental, consequential or other damages of any sort arising from this information and/or product. In using this information and/or product, the user accepts all responsibility for and all liability associated with such use.

CAUTION

A Remote Control (RC) model aircraft is not a toy. It is a flying model that functions much like a full size airplane. If you do not assemble and operate model aircraft properly you can cause injury to yourself and others and damage property. DO NOT FLY a model aircraft unless you are qualified.

You are ultimately responsible for the mechanical, aeronautical and electrical integrity of any model you fly and all of the components that make up the model including but not limited to the airframe itself, control surfaces, hinges, linkages, covering, engine, motor, radio, servos, switches, wiring, battery and parts. Check all components before and after each flight. It is essential that you act with the clear understanding that you are solely responsible for all aspects of the model at all times. DO NOT FLY until it is right.  

AVOIDING 90% of PROBLEMS that can arise:  

1. READ THE CAUTION ABOVE & READ THE LIABILITY DISCLAIMER.You are responsible for all aspects of any model you fly. You're It!
2. READ ALL DOCUMENTATION before doing anything else! 
3. INSPECT CAREFULLY immediately upon arrival!.
4. RETAIN ALL PACKAGING until the checkout is complete! If you need to return anything you must have all of the original packaging.
5. READ & LOOK! At everything! Do it once & then do it again.
6. REMEMBER WHAT "ARF" STANDS FOR. ARF means ALMOST Ready to Fly with an emphasis on ALMOST! Some assembly and modeling skills are required.
7. ALLOW ENOUGH TIME to enjoy the assembly process! Rushing into a 6 hour job with 3 hours to spare simply will not work. This is a Hobby... take your time.
8. DRY FIT & TEST ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING before you glue anything!
9. USE 30 MINUTE EPOXY when joining wings & installing stabilizers and other structural components but only after you have dry fitted and test assembled the components without glue! Once parts are glued together they cannot be unglued and they cannot be returned or replaced without charge.
10. PLAN AHEAD! BE CAREFUL! If you get into trouble, DON'T PANIC. Review everything again, talk it over with an experienced modeler and if still in difficulty consult our Support Services.
11. TEST TEST!!! TUG TUG TUG!!! EVERYTHING... BEFORE & AFTER EACH FLIGHT! Your model may have been largely pre-constructed and may have pre-installed control rods, hinges, control surfaces and many other essential components. Hinges may have been pinned after they have been installed. However, you must double check every control surface and component before and after each flight. You and only you are responsible for the integrity of all components and the integrity of the model itself. Check everything before and after each flight. Tug on control surfaces, control rods, mounting bolts, T-nuts, mounting plates... tug on everything!
12. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WING BOLTS or other fasteners. You want bolts and nuts snugly tight and if metal you can use a medium grade thread locker such as Pacer Z42 to help them stay tight. Fasteners must be snug and secure. However a model airplane is not a farm tractor or a garbage compactor. You do not need a pipe wrench or an electric drill to tighten up wing bolts or any other fastener. Leave your plumbing and power tools at home.. hand tools only and go easy on the torque... snug and secure... not stripped or torqued until they squeak or break.  Wing bolts can take tremendous torque before breaking... but when you over tighten them or use an electric screw driver on a set of wing bolts, long before the bolts break you can fracture the fuselage, crack the mounting blocks or pull the heads of the bolts through the wing... these problems have a nasty habit of revealing themselves when you least expect the wing to fall off!
13. DO NOT OVERPOWER ANY MODEL! Stay within the recommended power range for the model. If you overpower the model you run a high risk of structural failure that will lead to loss of control and a subsequent crash that will destroy the model and may cause injury and/or property damage.
14. ASSUME NOTHING! Remember the old yarn about what happens when you ASS-U-ME something. Check everything repeatedly and frequently and DO NOT FLY any model unless you are satisfied that everything is in good working order.

When mounting your throttle servo you will need to install two mounting rails or a servo tray for the throttle servo. The Glow Engine Installation Pack does not include the rails or servo tray for the throttle servo.

• 3/16 in. Birch Plywood. (Metric 4 or 5 mm is acceptable)
• 7/32 x 3.5 in. Round Dowels (5.5 mm). 1/4 in (6mm) can be used.
• Fuel Tank #VMA-TANK3503
• Engine Mount #RRC-MOUNTUNP.
• Four #8 x 5/8 inch Button Head Sheet Metal Screws

You also will require Pacer ZAP-A-GAP CA+, a Glue Stick such as Super Glue Corp #SGC-GS88 and Pacer Dap-A-Goo or Silicone Sealer such as Super Glue Corp #SGC-THC. You may also require Pacer Finishing Resin and Pacer 30 Minute Epoxy.

On Line, eMail, Fax, Phone, Mail

• Visit us at support.kbase.ca
  • > Support
  • > Click on and choose from...  

• Knowledge Base 24x7x365 - Immediate On Line Self Help [How To]    
• Submit a Question. [How To]             
  • Get a response within 2 Business Days
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• Contact Us. 
  • To reach us by email, fax, phone or mail.
  • Get a response within 4 Business Days
• Join our Mailing List - Sign up Now  
  • Best way to get periodic email Announcements of New Products, Sales, Promotions etc
  • We do NOT release your information to third parties.
• Replacement Parts.      
  • We stock an extensive offering of replacement parts
• Shipping Information.   [How To]
• Track UPS shipments in the U.S.
• UPS Delivery times across the U.S.

For Sales and other Inquiries  

Technical Inquiries:

Please review the information provided in our Knowledge Base. After checking our Knowledge Base, if you need further assistance please use our Submit A Question service to get a response within 2 Business Days.

Sales Inquiries: 

Please note that our Sales Department personnel are trained and dedicated to:

• Helping you with non-technical pre-purchase questions,
• Helping you place your order,
• Pointing out any sales, combos or specials that you may wish to consider,
• Inputting your order to our computer system so that it ships out as accurately and quickly as possible... usually the same day,  
• Resolving any invoicing problems, and
• Helping to sort out any missing shipment or shipment damage issues.

• From a Retailer
• Please support your local retailer.    
• On Line 24x7x365... if your favorite Retailer does not have what you are looking for, please visit one of our On-Line Stores. 
• www.richmondrc.com
• For Radio Control,
• For ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue & epoxies
• www.supplystore.com
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue, epoxies, related accessories and more to End Users & Consumers in the Building Construction, Repair & Maintenance Trades. Also Fine Woodworkers, Stagecraft Artisans, Professional Detailers, Sportsmen & Scale Model Builders.
• www.zapglue.ca
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacrylates, superglue, epoxies and related accessories to End Users & Consumers in the Industrial, Manufacturing, Assembly and Laboratory sectors.
• Order By Fax 24x7x365
• 604-940-1063
• Order By Phone M-F 11am-4pm Pacific Time
• Order Desk 604-940-1066    

For All Other Inquiries... please consult the following resources:

• On Line Information
• Please visit www.kbase.ca
• On Line Support Services
• Please visit support.kbase.ca and follow the links 

• After reviewing our On Line resources, if you require additional assistance please contact us by eMail, fax, phone or mail as follows:

• Ask a Question
• Use our Submit A Question service
• eMail 
  • sales@richmondrc.com
• Fax
  • 604-940-1063
• Phone
  • 604-940-1066
• Mail
• Richmond RC Supply Ltd, #114 - 7350 72nd Street, Delta, BC, V4G-1H9
• Mail & printed correspondence only.                
• We are not able to accomodate personal site visits or drop-offs/pick-ups at this location.
• Please note that all inbound Shipments require pre-Authorization in advance.
• Unauthorized inbound shipments will be refused.        

Check Frequently for Updates

Question: Where is the CG located on the VMAR Extra 330L 45-60 ARF ECS?

Answer: In stage 29 on page 15 of the manual there is a diagram and information as follows: The CG is located 4.75-5.25 inches (120-130 mm) back from the leading edge of the wing. This information is correct.

Additional Information: This is an aerobatic model. It is designed for aerobatics and is inherently less stable than a high wing trainer. The CG location affects its ability to do aerobatics. Setting the CG further forward will make the model more stable (easier to fly) but will limit it's ability to do aerobatics. Flyers who are unfamiliar with flying an Extra 330L OR who wish to test the model initially in a more stable configuration may wish to move the CG further forward for the first few flights. The CG can be moved ahead to lie up to 1/2" (12 mm) forward of the thickest part of the wing. This will be a more stable less aerobatically capable configuration. After becoming confident and more familiar with the flying characteristics the CG can be moved further aft towards the recommended location.

Question: I found two plastic pieces that appear to match the shape of the wing roots. What are these for?

Answer: These are a bonus component that was added to this model. Usually they appear on one "sheet" of plastic and can be cut out and mounted by the modeler after assembly. These are wing root fairings or covers and serve to provide a cleaner seal between the wing roots and the sides of the fuselage. They can be cut a bit large initially and then trimmed to fit.

Supplementary Information: Are they absolutely necessary? No they are not. They provide a better seal and look nice but they are not mandatory for flight.

What adhesive should I use to mount these? Always test any adhesive on a small out of view area of any painted or plastic component before proceeding. We generally recommend Pacer Dap-A-Goo for this type of component in this type of application. Dap-A-Goo is a silicone like material that has a solvent base rather than acetic acid and it dries quickly, fuel proof, relatively clear and best of all it sticks to just about any plastic and stays slightly flexible. Remember... ALWAYS TEST FIRST!

More Information about #ZBO-Y190611A ... BLOWOUT - VMAR EXTRA 330L 45-61 ARF (RED) - FINAL SALE 

This is a BLOWOUT... FINAL SALE item and the following caution applies: 

If you are able to build, repair, supply hardware for, assemble and set up without assistance you can save money buying a BLOWOUT item. If you are not able to perform these functions without assistance, you should NOT NOT NOT purchase a BLOWOUT item. Assume that work will be required and that some or all hardware and documentation will be missing. Shipping by Ground to USA and Canada only. Subject To Change Without Notice.

Without negating the caution above, we can provide the following additional information about this particular item:

Overall Condition:	"New In Box"
Color:	Red
Fuselage:	Included.
Wing:	Included.
Horizontal Stabilizer:	Included.
Vertical Stabilizer:	Included.
Cowl:	Included.
Parts Bag:	Included.
Previous Part#:	VMA-E260R

Previous Part# general information (for reference purposes only):

http://www.richmondrc.com/vma/common/techinfocommon/e260x/summary.htm

No other information is available regarding #ZBO-Y190611A  BLOWOUT - VMAR EXTRA 330L 45-61 ARF (RED) - FINAL SALE. 

Question: I am about to install the vertical stabilizer into my Escape. I find that when I am dry fitting and testing the installation of the vertical stabilizer before gluing that the rudder prevents full deflection of the elevator. The notch in the rudder that is intended to provide sufficent clearance appears to be slightly too high when viewed with the model top side up. What do I do?

Answer: This is a problem on some early production Escapes produced prior to 20050426. Enlarge the clearance slot in the rudder by about 1/8" expanding it downwards. This should be done BEFORE the vertical stabilizer is installed. Do NOT modify the elevator. See more information below.

More Information: See the attached picture. The Red tinted area should be cut away using a very sharp #11 blade OR preferably a powered fine blade scroll saw. Remove only about half of what is shown in the red tinted area and then do another trial fit. Only cut away more if you have to. Do NOT exceed the size of the red tinted area which as shown denotes removing a total of about 1/8" of material to expand the bottom limit of the cut out in the rudder.

After expanding the clearance hole in the rudder, wick thin CA such as ZAP CA from PACER into the wood edges of the cutout. Let the CA soak well into the wood. Do two applications. This will stiffen and significantly strengthen the wood. Now remove the covering from the pre-drilled rudder control horn hole represented by the blue circle in the picture (hold the rudder up to a light source to illuminate the hole if cannot locate it). Once the covering has been removed from both sides of the hole, wick thin CA into the edges of the hole. Let the CA soak well into the wood. Do two applications.

After the wood has been reinforced with CA, install the rudder control horn. Note carefully which way around you want to do this. Make sure that you have the control horn coming out the correct side of the rudder so that it connects to the rudder control rod. Seat the control horn firmly into the hole. You want a snug fit but do not overtighten. Remember that this is a model airplane not a Sherman Tank... no pipe wrenches please! After you have installed the control horn, again check that is correctly positioned and that it engages with the rudder control rod. Only after you are satisfied that the control horn is correctly positioned and snugly tight, then wick more CA or even better CA+ down the sides of the white T nut that is on the opposite side of the rudder. You want to fill any gap in the hole around the T-Nut so that there is one integral bond between the T-nut and the wood surrounding it.

Now you are ready to use 30 Minute Epoxy to glue the vertical stabilizer into place AFTER you do one more check on alignment, clearances etc.  

What to do if you have already glued the Vertical Stabilizer into place before you noticed the lack of clearance? Well it would have been best to check things out during the dry fit before you glued it into place BUT all is not lost. Review the information above and the picture attached. Then do what is described but you have to do the modification "in situ" i.e. in place. It's the same procedure just a bit more difficult to manage. Go slowing and carefully and use a shart #11 blade.

Various pictures of the VMAR Fournier and picture 12i on Page 7 of the Assembly & Operations Manual show a small spinner installed on the model.

This spinner was included by the manufacturer into some of the first production run, primarily the blue version of the model. The spinner was subsequently NOT included with later production runs of what were mainly the red version of the model.

If you find a spinner included with your model of the VMAR Fournier, we recommend NOT installing the spinner or it's related backing plate. It is difficult to install the spinner and backing plate in a secure and balanced manner. If your model did include a spinner (most do not) and you wish to install the spinner and backing plate, take extra care to ensure that they are securely held in place and balanced to keep vibration to a minimum.

202004018... noted that the F32x07 version has been superceded by the F35x08 version. The F35x08 version is approx 3 inch longer and 1 inch wider than the F32x07 version. Whereas the F32x07 version was rated for 05-09 lbs, the F35x08 version is rated for 06-10 lbs. 

The Assembly & Operations manual remains the same.  

Question: What is the difference between F32W07 F35W08 and F32W07B F35W08B or the difference between F32Y07 F35Y08 and F32Y07B F35Y08B?

(20200418... edits above... strokeouts superceded by type in red.  

Answer: The Floats are the same except for the color. The forward mounting bracket on the "B" version of the floats was designed to fit the early versions of the Beaver 40-60 ARF built prior to 20050101. These brackets have a three hole mounting system to match three pre-drilled holes in the bottom of the Beaver 40-60 ARF fuselage.

Since 20050101 the Beaver 40-60 ARF has four holes predrilled in the bottom of the fuselage for the standard main gear set that comes with the Beaver 40-60 ARF. The spacing of the holes in the bottom of the fuselage may not match the holes in the mounting bracket that comes with your floats. If it matches, you are good to go... if it does not match, four new holes will have to be drilled... this is not a big job if you follow the procedure outlined below.

Procedure:

Remove the forward mounting bracket from the float box. Turn the fuselage upside down and locate the pre-drilled holes in the bottom of the fuselage. Hold the mounting bracket with the flat non-tapered edge facing the engine end of the fuselage. Check the holes in the bracket vs the holes in the fuselage. If they match, attach the bracket to the fuselage with the screws provided. If they do not match, carefully center the mounting bracket and mark the location of the bracket holes on the fuselage using a ball point pen. Remove the bracket and examine the four pen marks. Plug the factory drilled holes in the fuselage with clear or white silicone. Use a 3/32" drill bit to make four new holes in the fuselage at the loction of the pen marks. 

Turn the fuselage upright and note the location of the four new holes in the landing gear flat plate in the bottom of the fuselage.  Locate the extra flat plate provided with the floats. Epoxy this plate into place inside the fuselage on top of the four holes you drilled. Let the Epoxy dry. Now turn the fuselage back over and drill the four holes again.

Attach the front bracket for the floats (flat non-tapered edge facing forward) to the fuselage with the four screws provided.

20200418

Question: Should I expect to add weight to the VMAR Phantom in order to have the CG in the correct location? If I must add weight, where will it normally go and how much do you think I will need?

Answer: This will depend on the weight of your engine, servos, receiver and in particular the weight and location of your airborne battery pack.  

Additional Information: The VMAR Phantom accomodates two stroke engines in the .60-.91 size range. As of 2005, engines in this class are often built from the same casing and although the crankshaft may be a bit heavier in a .91 the case is a bit lighter. Hence, in many brands there is not much of a weight difference between a .60 and a .91 two stroke engine. Many popular engines in this class weigh, with muffler, approximately 24 oz.

Radio receivers generally do not vary in weight much between brands. Servos can vary in weight from servo to servo(ball bearing heavy duty servos weigh more than standard servos) and airborne battery packs can be significantly different depending on their voltage and mAh capacity.

Experience with a variety of standard servos, 4.8V-6.0V nicad packs and .60-.91 size two stroke engines weighing approximately 24 oz with muffler has shown that for first flights 6-8 oz of weight in the tail is needed for a CG location that is somewhat nose heavy. After first flights moving the CG back slightly within the recommended range may be desired and require 10-12 ounces of weight in the tail.

These guidelines are NOT considered to be suitable for all situations. If your engine is heavier than 24 ounces, you may need more weight in the tail. If you are using a 6.0V 2000 mAh airborne battery located in the aft end of the model you may need less additional weight in the tail than if you are using a 4.8V 600mAh battery. Each model should be carefully checked for CG and compared with the recommended CG location. First flights should be slightly nose heavy (forward CG location) and no model should be flown with a CG outside the recommended range.

Question: I have the VMAR Phantom 90+ ARF. The Phantom comes with set of Dummy Wing Tanks. Is it OK to fly the Phantom with the Dummy Wing Tanks in place?

Answer: Yes they are airworthy and you can fly the Phantom with the Dummy Wing Tanks in place.

Question: Will the VMAR Phantom II fly OK on a .60? What do you recommend?

Answer: We recommend a .60 to .91 two stroke engine. Yes it flys well on a .61. A .75-.91 would be the best overall choice... .91 is the max and a bit over the top but favored by flyers who like power. Anything larger than a .91 will require considerable work on the fuselage nose section and you run the risk of detracting from the scale like appearance if you butcher the nose area. This model is NOT intended to accomodate four stroke engines.

Please note that we have NOT tested this model with two strokes larger than a .91 and have NOT tested this model with four strokes. We recommend the use of a .60 to .91 two stroke engine for this model. We are not able to endorse the use of two stroke engines larger than a .91 or the use of four stroke engines for this model.

Question: Are there oleo strut sets available for the VMAR Phantom II 60-91 ARF? Are they actually functional or just dummies?

Answer:  The VMAR Phantom II 60-91 ARF comes standard with fixed gear and we offer a set of oleo struts (3) for this model. Yes they are functional and easy to install. They are well made, work well, look very scale like and help protect your model from damage by sucking up hard landings and rough fields. These oleo strut sets are very economical and we offer them at a very low combo price to anyone buying them with the Phantom. See the VMAR On Line store at www.richmondrc.com . Look just below the Jets listing in the left frame. 

This combo offer is open to all owners of VMAR Phantom II 60-90 ARF's until the end of 2006... regardless of when or where the model  was purchased.  

For oleo strut installation instructions please click the following: Installation Tips - VMA-OLEOxxx Oleo Strut Sets  [New Window]

Question: If I want to install optional retracts in the VMAR Phantom II 60-91 ARF which retracts should I use?

Answer:  The VMAR Phantom II 60-91 ARF comes standard with fixed gear and it is ready to accept Robart mechanical retracts. Robart #608HD main gear retracts and the Robart #610 nose gear retract have been installed and tested in this model. Other brands of medium duty retracts can, with work be fitted. Please see the instructions that come with your retracts for specific installation instructions and requirements.  

Question: How many servos are needed if I want to install optional mechanical retracts in the VMAR Phantom II 60-91 ARF?

Answer: 2 standard servos for the mains and 1 standard servo for the nose gear. We recommend the use of Airtronics servos.

Question: Is the control rod in the rudder of the VMAR Phantom II supposed to be a very tight fit or a slightly loose fit?

Answer: The control rod in the rudder of the VMAR Phantom II is intended to have a slightly loose fit until the vertical stabilizer is installed into the fuselage per the assembly and operations manual. Once installed per the manual, the control rod will have a tighter fit. After installation, always ensure that the control rod and rudder move freely with a standard servo.

PLEASE READ ME FIRST

BEFORE PROCEEDING TO ASSEMBLE OR OPERATE THIS PRODUCT

LIABILITY DISCLAIMER

The authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product expressly disclaim any warranties or representations, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to implied warranties of fitness, accuracy, timeliness or applicability of the information and/or product provided here. In no event will the authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product have any obligation arising from contract or tort, for loss of revenue or profit, or for indirect, special, incidental, consequential or other damages of any sort arising from this information and/or product. In using this information and/or product, the user accepts all responsibility for and all liability associated with such use.

CAUTION

A Remote Control (RC) model aircraft is not a toy. It is a flying model that functions much like a full size airplane. If you do not assemble and operate model aircraft properly you can cause injury to yourself and others and damage property. DO NOT FLY a model aircraft unless you are qualified.

You are ultimately responsible for the mechanical, aeronautical and electrical integrity of any model you fly and all of the components that make up the model including but not limited to the airframe itself, control surfaces, hinges, linkages, covering, engine, motor, radio, servos, switches, wiring, battery and parts. Check all components before and after each flight. It is essential that you act with the clear understanding that you are solely responsible for all aspects of the model at all times. DO NOT FLY until it is right.  

AVOIDING 90% of PROBLEMS that can arise:  

1. READ THE CAUTION ABOVE & READ THE LIABILITY DISCLAIMER.You are responsible for all aspects of any model you fly. You're It!
2. READ ALL DOCUMENTATION before doing anything else! 
3. INSPECT CAREFULLY immediately upon arrival!.
4. RETAIN ALL PACKAGING until the checkout is complete! If you need to return anything you must have all of the original packaging.
5. READ & LOOK! At everything! Do it once & then do it again.
6. REMEMBER WHAT "ARF" STANDS FOR. ARF means ALMOST Ready to Fly with an emphasis on ALMOST! Some assembly and modeling skills are required.
7. ALLOW ENOUGH TIME to enjoy the assembly process! Rushing into a 6 hour job with 3 hours to spare simply will not work. This is a Hobby... take your time.
8. DRY FIT & TEST ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING before you glue anything!
9. USE 30 MINUTE EPOXY when joining wings & installing stabilizers and other structural components but only after you have dry fitted and test assembled the components without glue! Once parts are glued together they cannot be unglued and they cannot be returned or replaced without charge.
10. PLAN AHEAD! BE CAREFUL! If you get into trouble, DON'T PANIC. Review everything again, talk it over with an experienced modeler and if still in difficulty consult our Support Services.
11. TEST TEST!!! TUG TUG TUG!!! EVERYTHING... BEFORE & AFTER EACH FLIGHT! Your model may have been largely pre-constructed and may have pre-installed control rods, hinges, control surfaces and many other essential components. Hinges may have been pinned after they have been installed. However, you must double check every control surface and component before and after each flight. You and only you are responsible for the integrity of all components and the integrity of the model itself. Check everything before and after each flight. Tug on control surfaces, control rods, mounting bolts, T-nuts, mounting plates... tug on everything!
12. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WING BOLTS or other fasteners. You want bolts and nuts snugly tight and if metal you can use a medium grade thread locker such as Pacer Z42 to help them stay tight. Fasteners must be snug and secure. However a model airplane is not a farm tractor or a garbage compactor. You do not need a pipe wrench or an electric drill to tighten up wing bolts or any other fastener. Leave your plumbing and power tools at home.. hand tools only and go easy on the torque... snug and secure... not stripped or torqued until they squeak or break.  Wing bolts can take tremendous torque before breaking... but when you over tighten them or use an electric screw driver on a set of wing bolts, long before the bolts break you can fracture the fuselage, crack the mounting blocks or pull the heads of the bolts through the wing... these problems have a nasty habit of revealing themselves when you least expect the wing to fall off!
13. DO NOT OVERPOWER ANY MODEL! Stay within the recommended power range for the model. If you overpower the model you run a high risk of structural failure that will lead to loss of control and a subsequent crash that will destroy the model and may cause injury and/or property damage.
14. ASSUME NOTHING! Remember the old yarn about what happens when you ASS-U-ME something. Check everything repeatedly and frequently and DO NOT FLY any model unless you are satisfied that everything is in good working order.

Question: How are VMAR control horns installed? 

Answer: VMAR control horns are unique. They work better and are easier to install. They do not look like most of the control horns you have seen before and you may not recognize them for what they are or you may think they are missing. They are in the control horn parts bag &/or wing parts bag  inside the master bag of hardware and consist of a metal bolt, metal nut, beveled white plastic washer, a white plastic T-nut and the white plastic control horn itself that connects to a clevis or rod.

The iillustration below and to the left shows a control horn set before installation. Note 5 parts make up the set. In Light Duty applications the Metal Nut may not be included and only 4 parts will make up the set. The illustration below and to the right shows a control horn set partially installed. Although illustrations in various manuals show the bevelled washer with the bevel pointing away from the surface we find that we get a cleaner strong installation with the bevel pointing inwards.

We recommend wicking thin CA such as Pacer ZAP/CA (Pink) into the exposed wood surrounding the hole in the control surface. This helps further strengthen the wood. This is not a requirement but if you are pushing the power limits or planning on extreme aerobatics or speeds, the extra strength could come in handy. Use two applications of thin CA 1 minute apart, BEFORE installing the control horn.

The illustration below shows horn side view of a control horn set fully installed. The illustration to the left is a lighter duty application without the metal nut. The illustration to the right shows a heavier duty application with the metal nut installed. If the metal nuts have been supplied with the horns, we recommend using them.  

This model uses VCOTE2 - 3DS Covering

On Line, eMail, Fax, Phone, Mail

• Visit us at support.kbase.ca
  • > Support
  • > Click on and choose from...  

• Knowledge Base 24x7x365 - Immediate On Line Self Help [How To]    
• Submit a Question. [How To]             
  • Get a response within 2 Business Days
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  • We do NOT release your information to third parties.
• Replacement Parts.      
  • We stock an extensive offering of replacement parts
• Shipping Information.   [How To]
• Track UPS shipments in the U.S.
• UPS Delivery times across the U.S.

For Sales and other Inquiries  

Technical Inquiries:

Please review the information provided in our Knowledge Base. After checking our Knowledge Base, if you need further assistance please use our Submit A Question service to get a response within 2 Business Days.

Sales Inquiries: 

Please note that our Sales Department personnel are trained and dedicated to:

• Helping you with non-technical pre-purchase questions,
• Helping you place your order,
• Pointing out any sales, combos or specials that you may wish to consider,
• Inputting your order to our computer system so that it ships out as accurately and quickly as possible... usually the same day,  
• Resolving any invoicing problems, and
• Helping to sort out any missing shipment or shipment damage issues.

• From a Retailer
• Please support your local retailer.    
• On Line 24x7x365... if your favorite Retailer does not have what you are looking for, please visit one of our On-Line Stores. 
• www.richmondrc.com
• For Radio Control,
• For ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue & epoxies
• www.supplystore.com
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue, epoxies, related accessories and more to End Users & Consumers in the Building Construction, Repair & Maintenance Trades. Also Fine Woodworkers, Stagecraft Artisans, Professional Detailers, Sportsmen & Scale Model Builders.
• www.zapglue.ca
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacrylates, superglue, epoxies and related accessories to End Users & Consumers in the Industrial, Manufacturing, Assembly and Laboratory sectors.
• Order By Fax 24x7x365
• 604-940-1063
• Order By Phone M-F 11am-4pm Pacific Time
• Order Desk 604-940-1066    

For All Other Inquiries... please consult the following resources:

• On Line Information
• Please visit www.kbase.ca
• On Line Support Services
• Please visit support.kbase.ca and follow the links 

• After reviewing our On Line resources, if you require additional assistance please contact us by eMail, fax, phone or mail as follows:

• Ask a Question
• Use our Submit A Question service
• eMail 
  • sales@richmondrc.com
• Fax
  • 604-940-1063
• Phone
  • 604-940-1066
• Mail
• Richmond RC Supply Ltd, #114 - 7350 72nd Street, Delta, BC, V4G-1H9
• Mail & printed correspondence only.                
• We are not able to accomodate personal site visits or drop-offs/pick-ups at this location.
• Please note that all inbound Shipments require pre-Authorization in advance.
• Unauthorized inbound shipments will be refused.        

Check Frequently for Updates

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below. 

Question: Does a dummy missile set come with the VMAR F5E?

Answer: Yes, a dummy missile set comes with the VMAR F5E. 

Question: Does the VMAR F5E support the use of functional Oleo Struts?

Answer: Yes. The VMAR F5E supports the use of functional Oleo Struts. The VMAR Oleo Strut set  is #VMA-OLEO2S3. The Oleo Strut set includes two oleos for the main gear and one for the nose. It also includes the wheels, axles and wheel retainers.

Question: Is the VMAR F5E retract ready?

Question: If I want to install optional retracts in the VMAR F5E Tiger II 60-91 ARF which retracts should I use?

Answer:  The VMAR F5E Tiger II 60-91 ARF comes standard with fixed gear and it is ready to accept Robart mechanical retracts. Robart #608HD main gear retracts and the Robart #610 nose gear retract have been installed and tested in this model. Other brands of medium duty retracts can, with work be fitted. Please see the instructions that come with your retracts for specific installation instructions and requirements.  

PLEASE READ ME FIRST

BEFORE PROCEEDING TO ASSEMBLE OR OPERATE THIS PRODUCT

LIABILITY DISCLAIMER

The authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product expressly disclaim any warranties or representations, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to implied warranties of fitness, accuracy, timeliness or applicability of the information and/or product provided here. In no event will the authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product have any obligation arising from contract or tort, for loss of revenue or profit, or for indirect, special, incidental, consequential or other damages of any sort arising from this information and/or product. In using this information and/or product, the user accepts all responsibility for and all liability associated with such use.

CAUTION

A Remote Control (RC) model aircraft is not a toy. It is a flying model that functions much like a full size airplane. If you do not assemble and operate model aircraft properly you can cause injury to yourself and others and damage property. DO NOT FLY a model aircraft unless you are qualified.

You are ultimately responsible for the mechanical, aeronautical and electrical integrity of any model you fly and all of the components that make up the model including but not limited to the airframe itself, control surfaces, hinges, linkages, covering, engine, motor, radio, servos, switches, wiring, battery and parts. Check all components before and after each flight. It is essential that you act with the clear understanding that you are solely responsible for all aspects of the model at all times. DO NOT FLY until it is right.  

AVOIDING 90% of PROBLEMS that can arise:  

1. READ THE CAUTION ABOVE & READ THE LIABILITY DISCLAIMER.You are responsible for all aspects of any model you fly. You're It!
2. READ ALL DOCUMENTATION before doing anything else! 
3. INSPECT CAREFULLY immediately upon arrival!.
4. RETAIN ALL PACKAGING until the checkout is complete! If you need to return anything you must have all of the original packaging.
5. READ & LOOK! At everything! Do it once & then do it again.
6. REMEMBER WHAT "ARF" STANDS FOR. ARF means ALMOST Ready to Fly with an emphasis on ALMOST! Some assembly and modeling skills are required.
7. ALLOW ENOUGH TIME to enjoy the assembly process! Rushing into a 6 hour job with 3 hours to spare simply will not work. This is a Hobby... take your time.
8. DRY FIT & TEST ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING before you glue anything!
9. USE 30 MINUTE EPOXY when joining wings & installing stabilizers and other structural components but only after you have dry fitted and test assembled the components without glue! Once parts are glued together they cannot be unglued and they cannot be returned or replaced without charge.
10. PLAN AHEAD! BE CAREFUL! If you get into trouble, DON'T PANIC. Review everything again, talk it over with an experienced modeler and if still in difficulty consult our Support Services.
11. TEST TEST!!! TUG TUG TUG!!! EVERYTHING... BEFORE & AFTER EACH FLIGHT! Your model may have been largely pre-constructed and may have pre-installed control rods, hinges, control surfaces and many other essential components. Hinges may have been pinned after they have been installed. However, you must double check every control surface and component before and after each flight. You and only you are responsible for the integrity of all components and the integrity of the model itself. Check everything before and after each flight. Tug on control surfaces, control rods, mounting bolts, T-nuts, mounting plates... tug on everything!
12. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WING BOLTS or other fasteners. You want bolts and nuts snugly tight and if metal you can use a medium grade thread locker such as Pacer Z42 to help them stay tight. Fasteners must be snug and secure. However a model airplane is not a farm tractor or a garbage compactor. You do not need a pipe wrench or an electric drill to tighten up wing bolts or any other fastener. Leave your plumbing and power tools at home.. hand tools only and go easy on the torque... snug and secure... not stripped or torqued until they squeak or break.  Wing bolts can take tremendous torque before breaking... but when you over tighten them or use an electric screw driver on a set of wing bolts, long before the bolts break you can fracture the fuselage, crack the mounting blocks or pull the heads of the bolts through the wing... these problems have a nasty habit of revealing themselves when you least expect the wing to fall off!
13. DO NOT OVERPOWER ANY MODEL! Stay within the recommended power range for the model. If you overpower the model you run a high risk of structural failure that will lead to loss of control and a subsequent crash that will destroy the model and may cause injury and/or property damage.
14. ASSUME NOTHING! Remember the old yarn about what happens when you ASS-U-ME something. Check everything repeatedly and frequently and DO NOT FLY any model unless you are satisfied that everything is in good working order.

Question: How are VMAR control horns installed? 

Answer: VMAR control horns are unique. They work better and are easier to install. They do not look like most of the control horns you have seen before and you may not recognize them for what they are or you may think they are missing. They are in the control horn parts bag &/or wing parts bag  inside the master bag of hardware and consist of a metal bolt, metal nut, beveled white plastic washer, a white plastic T-nut and the white plastic control horn itself that connects to a clevis or rod.

The iillustration below and to the left shows a control horn set before installation. Note 5 parts make up the set. In Light Duty applications the Metal Nut may not be included and only 4 parts will make up the set. The illustration below and to the right shows a control horn set partially installed. Although illustrations in various manuals show the bevelled washer with the bevel pointing away from the surface we find that we get a cleaner strong installation with the bevel pointing inwards.

We recommend wicking thin CA such as Pacer ZAP/CA (Pink) into the exposed wood surrounding the hole in the control surface. This helps further strengthen the wood. This is not a requirement but if you are pushing the power limits or planning on extreme aerobatics or speeds, the extra strength could come in handy. Use two applications of thin CA 1 minute apart, BEFORE installing the control horn.

The illustration below shows horn side view of a control horn set fully installed. The illustration to the left is a lighter duty application without the metal nut. The illustration to the right shows a heavier duty application with the metal nut installed. If the metal nuts have been supplied with the horns, we recommend using them.  

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20060822 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

Please see Page 6, Figure 6D.

Figure 6D shows the fitting of the horizontal stabilizers into the horizontal stabilizer slots in the side aft section of the fuselage.

The horizontal stabilizers fit into the slots in the fuselage and are to be seated securely into their respective fuselage slots in the same manner for both the left and right horizontal stabilizers. The distances shown in Figure 6D of the 20060822 version of the manual are incorrect. The "leading edge" distance (bottommost in the picture) should be approximately 16.14 in. (410 mm) and the "hinge line" distance (uppermost in the picture) should be approximately 13.31 in. (338 mm). These distances may vary slightly in production. The important point to note here is that the two horizontal stabilizers should be seated securely into their respective fuselage slots in the same manner for both the left and and right horizontal stabilizers.

The actual distances are not as critical as the requirements that:

• Both horizontal stabilizers be securely inserted into their respective fuselage slots,
• Both horizontal stabilizers are angled so that they are both oriented in a similar manner, and
• Both elevators move freely without binding.  

This supplementary information applies to manuals with a copyright date of 20060822 (see back cover). Manuals having later copyright dates may already reflect this supplementary information.

Please see Page 5, Figure 5C.

Step 5.1 and Figure 5C describe and show the dry test fitting of the vertical stabilizers into the vertical stabilizer slots in the top aft section of the fuselage.

The vertical stablizers fit into the slots in the fuselage and are to be seated securely into their respective fuselage slots in the same manner for both the left and right vertical stabilizers. The distances shown in Figure 5C of the 20060822 version of the manual are incorrect. The "leading edge" distance (rightmost in the picture) should be approximately 13.58 in. (345 mm) and the "hinge line" distance (leftmost in the picture) should be approximately 11.02 in. (280 mm). These distances may vary slightly in production. The important point to note here is that the two vertical stabilizers should be seated securely into their respective fuselate slots in the same manner for both the left and and right vertical stabilizers.

The actual distances are not as critical as the requirements that:

• Both vertical stabilizers be securely inserted into their respective fuselage slots,
• Both vertical stabilizers are angled so that they are both oriented in a similar manner, and
• Both rudders move freely without binding.  

This model uses VCOTE2 - 3DS Covering

On Line, eMail, Fax, Phone, Mail

• Visit us at support.kbase.ca
  • > Support
  • > Click on and choose from...  

• Knowledge Base 24x7x365 - Immediate On Line Self Help [How To]    
• Submit a Question. [How To]             
  • Get a response within 2 Business Days
• Price Lists & More - Printable PDF's for Download   
• Contact Us. 
  • To reach us by email, fax, phone or mail.
  • Get a response within 4 Business Days
• Join our Mailing List - Sign up Now  
  • Best way to get periodic email Announcements of New Products, Sales, Promotions etc
  • We do NOT release your information to third parties.
• Replacement Parts.      
  • We stock an extensive offering of replacement parts
• Shipping Information.   [How To]
• Track UPS shipments in the U.S.
• UPS Delivery times across the U.S.

For Sales and other Inquiries  

Technical Inquiries:

Please review the information provided in our Knowledge Base. After checking our Knowledge Base, if you need further assistance please use our Submit A Question service to get a response within 2 Business Days.

Sales Inquiries: 

Please note that our Sales Department personnel are trained and dedicated to:

• Helping you with non-technical pre-purchase questions,
• Helping you place your order,
• Pointing out any sales, combos or specials that you may wish to consider,
• Inputting your order to our computer system so that it ships out as accurately and quickly as possible... usually the same day,  
• Resolving any invoicing problems, and
• Helping to sort out any missing shipment or shipment damage issues.

• From a Retailer
• Please support your local retailer.    
• On Line 24x7x365... if your favorite Retailer does not have what you are looking for, please visit one of our On-Line Stores. 
• www.richmondrc.com
• For Radio Control,
• For ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue & epoxies
• www.supplystore.com
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacyrlates, superglue, epoxies, related accessories and more to End Users & Consumers in the Building Construction, Repair & Maintenance Trades. Also Fine Woodworkers, Stagecraft Artisans, Professional Detailers, Sportsmen & Scale Model Builders.
• www.zapglue.ca
• Supplying ZAP Brand CA, cyanoacrylates, superglue, epoxies and related accessories to End Users & Consumers in the Industrial, Manufacturing, Assembly and Laboratory sectors.
• Order By Fax 24x7x365
• 604-940-1063
• Order By Phone M-F 11am-4pm Pacific Time
• Order Desk 604-940-1066    

For All Other Inquiries... please consult the following resources:

• On Line Information
• Please visit www.kbase.ca
• On Line Support Services
• Please visit support.kbase.ca and follow the links 

• After reviewing our On Line resources, if you require additional assistance please contact us by eMail, fax, phone or mail as follows:

• Ask a Question
• Use our Submit A Question service
• eMail 
  • sales@richmondrc.com
• Fax
  • 604-940-1063
• Phone
  • 604-940-1066
• Mail
• Richmond RC Supply Ltd, #114 - 7350 72nd Street, Delta, BC, V4G-1H9
• Mail & printed correspondence only.                
• We are not able to accomodate personal site visits or drop-offs/pick-ups at this location.
• Please note that all inbound Shipments require pre-Authorization in advance.
• Unauthorized inbound shipments will be refused.        

Check Frequently for Updates

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below. 

Question: Does a dummy missile set come with the VMAR F18?

Answer: A dummy missile set comes with the Navy Version of the VMAR F18. The Blue Angels version does NOT come with a missile set. The Blue Angels version is modeled after the aircraft used by the Blue Angels precision flying team where missiles are not permitted.

Question: Does the VMAR F18 support the use of functional Oleo Struts?

Answer: Yes. The VMAR F18 includes VMAR Oleo Strut set  #VMA-OLEO6S3. These are included with the kit and available as aftermarket replacements. The Oleo Strut set includes two oleos for the main and one for the nose. It also includes the wheels, axles and wheel retainers.

Question: Is the steerable nose gear assembly for the VMAR F18 actually a functional Oleo strut?

Answer: Yes. In fact the steerable nose gear assembly for the VMAR F18 incorporates two functional Oleos: 

• The regular Oleo dampens shock in the vertical axis.
• The brace Oleo dampens longitudinal shock and limits the aft deflection of the nose gear  

Question: Is the Oleo Strut on the nose of the VMAR F18 steerable?

Answer: Yes the Oleo Strut for the nose gear of the VMAR F18 is steerable.

Question: Is the VMAR F18 retract ready?

Answer: No the VMAR F18 is not retract ready. The F18 is a very unique design and we could not find any retract makers who had an economical reliable retract suitable for this model.

In theory a very skilled modeller could possibly adapt retract equipment available in the market to fit into the VMAR F18 and/or a machinist could make a set of retracts and then modify the VMAR F18 to accept them. This is a great deal of work and may not lead to a workable solution.

We do supply a set of functional Oleo Struts (3) for the VMAR F18 that work well and look very scale like.

Question: We have a VMAR F18 in Blue Angels schema at our field. It flies great and a few of us are thinking of forming a flying team using this model. Is it possible to get different tail numbers?

Answer: Yes. The VMAR F18 Blue Angels tail numbers range from 1 to 6. 

• They are randomly stocked and we may not be able to guarantee the availability of a specific tail number at all times.
• If you have a preference, let us know and we will try to get you what you are looking for from our stock.
• If we don't have your preferred number let us know if an alternative will do.
• Lastly, if you are willing to wait for our next shipment from the factory, tell us and we will custom order your F18 with your specified tail number on it.

Question: How do I install the Fuel Tank into my VMAR Hornet 40-52ARF?

Answer: This is not difficult but the instruction book does not cover this directly.

Do the fuel tank setup first. Install the internal tubing and clunk(s). When the stopper has been tightened but not overtightened, install pieces of fuel tubing between or over the ends of the metal pipes to seal them against dirt and debris. Mark the back of the tank with an arrow pointing up so that you can clearly see which way the tank is to be positioned in the model.

Remove the black sealing gasket from the fuel tank. Apply sealant such as Pacer Dap-A-Goo to the front face of the tank around the neck and re-install the gasket. Apply more sealant to the front face of the gasket.

Insert the tank into the fuel tank compartment with the tubes forward and oriented so that the top of the tank is positioned correctly. Press the tank firmly against the back side of the firewall and secure in place while the sealant cures.

From the engine mount area, apply more sealant around the neck of the fuel tank working from the front of the fuselage.

When the sealant has dried, support the tank with sponge foam around the sides and bottom of the tank. You may wish to install your battery pack beneath or behind the tank before inserting the sponge foam.

Question: What is the maximum engine size that can be mounted on the VMAR Hornet 40-52 ARF without modifying the fuselage or engine mounts?

Answer: The Maximum engine size is a .52 2 stroke or about a .70 four stroke provided that it will physically fit.

Better Answer: We can only endorse the use of engines up to .52 2 stroke in size or other engine types such as a 4 stroke having similar power.

The specifications on the engine mounts are as follows:

Engine Mount Engine Width Max: 1.3 in. (32 mm)
Engine Mount Engine Lug Length Max using Factory drilled holes: .7 in. (18.5 mm)

Engine Mount Engine Lug Length Max if using Custom drilled holes: 1.5 in. (39 mm)
Engine Mount T-Bar Beam Length Max: 2.9 in. (74 mm)

Question: My VMAR Hornet ARF does not appear to have a cavity for the Aileron Servo. What should I do?

1. The cavity is to be 11 mm wide x 40 mm long in each wing. When the wings are joined, the cavity will be 22 mm wide x 40 mm long. This will accomodate major brand "standard" servos.
2. Examine each wing root.
3. The cavity is bounded at the front (towards leading edge of the wing) by the triangle stock adjacent to the wing spar joiner channel and bounded on the rear (towards the trailing edge of the wing) by a strip of "rail" hardwood. You can see the triangle stock and the rail strip from the wing roots. 
4. Carefully cut away the balsa skin that lies over the cavity between the triangle stock and the rail strip. Each cut out will be approximately 11mm wide and 40 mm long.
5. Test the cutout to ensure it will accomodate your standard servo. Trim to fit accordingly.

PLEASE READ ME FIRST

BEFORE PROCEEDING TO ASSEMBLE OR OPERATE THIS PRODUCT

LIABILITY DISCLAIMER

The authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product expressly disclaim any warranties or representations, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to implied warranties of fitness, accuracy, timeliness or applicability of the information and/or product provided here. In no event will the authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product have any obligation arising from contract or tort, for loss of revenue or profit, or for indirect, special, incidental, consequential or other damages of any sort arising from this information and/or product. In using this information and/or product, the user accepts all responsibility for and all liability associated with such use.

CAUTION

A Remote Control (RC) model aircraft is not a toy. It is a flying model that functions much like a full size airplane. If you do not assemble and operate model aircraft properly you can cause injury to yourself and others and damage property. DO NOT FLY a model aircraft unless you are qualified.

You are ultimately responsible for the mechanical, aeronautical and electrical integrity of any model you fly and all of the components that make up the model including but not limited to the airframe itself, control surfaces, hinges, linkages, covering, engine, motor, radio, servos, switches, wiring, battery and parts. Check all components before and after each flight. It is essential that you act with the clear understanding that you are solely responsible for all aspects of the model at all times. DO NOT FLY until it is right.  

AVOIDING 90% of PROBLEMS that can arise:  

1. READ THE CAUTION ABOVE & READ THE LIABILITY DISCLAIMER.You are responsible for all aspects of any model you fly. You're It!
2. READ ALL DOCUMENTATION before doing anything else! 
3. INSPECT CAREFULLY immediately upon arrival!.
4. RETAIN ALL PACKAGING until the checkout is complete! If you need to return anything you must have all of the original packaging.
5. READ & LOOK! At everything! Do it once & then do it again.
6. REMEMBER WHAT "ARF" STANDS FOR. ARF means ALMOST Ready to Fly with an emphasis on ALMOST! Some assembly and modeling skills are required.
7. ALLOW ENOUGH TIME to enjoy the assembly process! Rushing into a 6 hour job with 3 hours to spare simply will not work. This is a Hobby... take your time.
8. DRY FIT & TEST ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING before you glue anything!
9. USE 30 MINUTE EPOXY when joining wings & installing stabilizers and other structural components but only after you have dry fitted and test assembled the components without glue! Once parts are glued together they cannot be unglued and they cannot be returned or replaced without charge.
10. PLAN AHEAD! BE CAREFUL! If you get into trouble, DON'T PANIC. Review everything again, talk it over with an experienced modeler and if still in difficulty consult our Support Services.
11. TEST TEST!!! TUG TUG TUG!!! EVERYTHING... BEFORE & AFTER EACH FLIGHT! Your model may have been largely pre-constructed and may have pre-installed control rods, hinges, control surfaces and many other essential components. Hinges may have been pinned after they have been installed. However, you must double check every control surface and component before and after each flight. You and only you are responsible for the integrity of all components and the integrity of the model itself. Check everything before and after each flight. Tug on control surfaces, control rods, mounting bolts, T-nuts, mounting plates... tug on everything!
12. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WING BOLTS or other fasteners. You want bolts and nuts snugly tight and if metal you can use a medium grade thread locker such as Pacer Z42 to help them stay tight. Fasteners must be snug and secure. However a model airplane is not a farm tractor or a garbage compactor. You do not need a pipe wrench or an electric drill to tighten up wing bolts or any other fastener. Leave your plumbing and power tools at home.. hand tools only and go easy on the torque... snug and secure... not stripped or torqued until they squeak or break.  Wing bolts can take tremendous torque before breaking... but when you over tighten them or use an electric screw driver on a set of wing bolts, long before the bolts break you can fracture the fuselage, crack the mounting blocks or pull the heads of the bolts through the wing... these problems have a nasty habit of revealing themselves when you least expect the wing to fall off!
13. DO NOT OVERPOWER ANY MODEL! Stay within the recommended power range for the model. If you overpower the model you run a high risk of structural failure that will lead to loss of control and a subsequent crash that will destroy the model and may cause injury and/or property damage.
14. ASSUME NOTHING! Remember the old yarn about what happens when you ASS-U-ME something. Check everything repeatedly and frequently and DO NOT FLY any model unless you are satisfied that everything is in good working order.

a) Use three idential Brushless Motors and three identical Electronic Speed Controls (ESC). Each motor should have its own speed control. (see footnote below)

 

b) Connect each ESC to a Brushless Motor using the color coded wire as a guide. Test and ensure that the motor turns in the direction expected and that thrust is aft of the motor.

 

c) Make a power Y3-connector to feed power from your LiPo battery to the power input leads on both of your ESC's. 

 

d) Use the power Y3-connector to connect the power input to the ESC's to a common (1) LiPO battery source.

 

e) Make a throttle Y3-connector (you can serially gang up two Y connectors). This is necessary for Triple ESC operation which assumes that you are using three motors and three ESC's.

 

For TRIPLE ESC operation use ONLY the NEGATIVE (-) Power (usually black or brown) & SIGNAL lines
(see table below) between the receiver throttle channel and the ESC's.

 

Do NOT use the POSITIVE (+) Power (usually Red) wires.  

The following table serves as a guide to common radio systems and their wiring schema and color usage. Use this table with caution. If in doubt, please defer to information provided by your radio supplier.  

 

RADIO BRAND	NEGATIVE (-)	SIGNAL
VRS & Futaba	Black	White
Airtronics Z	Black	Blue
JR	Brown	Orange
HiTec	Black	Yellow

f) Plug the ESC throttle control wires into the ends of the throttle Y3-connector

 

g) Plug the remaining single end of the throttle Y3 connector into your receiver throttle channel.  

 

h) Use the airborne battery pack from your radio system to power your receiver. Do NOT attempt to use power from either BEC to power your receiver. You may wish to consider using a stand alone BEC such as that from Western Robotics to power your radio system but do NOT use the BEC's that are a part of many ESC's. They will not work in a triple power configuration.

 

i) Select suitable propellers for your motors and your speed controllers. The three props should be identical. Prop selection is vital with brushless motors. Overloading the motors and ESC by using the wrong prop can get very very expensive in a big hurry.

 

j) Verify that you can control the RPM of the motors via the receiver and that they produce similar RPM and thrust throughout the throttle range.  

This model uses POLYCOTE ECS Covering

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• Unauthorized inbound shipments will be refused.        

Check Frequently for Updates

In general "Additional" Information is:

• In addition to that found in other documentation related to this product,
• Often reflects feedback &/or questions from users of the product.

Subject to the Conditions of Use, please review the attachments and related articles listed below.

Question: I have purchased a VMAR P51D Mustang with Big Beautiful Doll graphics. The cowl in the picture has a checkerboard pattern. How is this done?

Answer: The cowl comes pre-painted in a silver color with a roll of black and white strips that are used for the checkerboard pattern. The strips are rolled up and usually in the nose of the cowl when shipped or in the parts bag.

Better Answer: First lay out either the white or black strips in lines on the cowl. Just do one of the colors for now. Mask out what you want to keep of the first color and using a sharp knife cut away the excess. Now lay the second set of colored strips down into the cutout areas and again cut away the excess leaving a checkboard pattern of white and black squares.

Question: I have a VMAR P51D 45-52 ARF. This ARF comes with what looks like an airscoop and another plastic plate like fairing. Where do these go and how do I attach them?

Answer: Both of these trim pieces go on the bottom of the wing. We recommend attaching the wing to the fuselage before applying the trim pieces.

Both pieces are to be centered over the wing joint seam.

The plate like fairing is to be applied near the leading edge of the wing with the flat face forward so that it butts up against the fuselage.

The air scoop is to be applied near the trailing edge of the wing with the scoop inlet facing forward and about 1/4" of overhanging flashing at the back of the scoop overlapping the fuselage. When correctly positioned and overhanging the fuselage at the back, the wing bolts will be accessible with the scoop remaining in place.

Dry mount both pieces and if necessary trim the fit with a sharp #11 blade.

Once dry fitting well, glue the trim pieces to the wing with Pacer Dap-A-Goo. This is a silicone like material that dries flexible and sticks well to the trim pieces and the covering. Apply the Dap-A-Goo to the trim pieces in a thin bead just inboard from the outer edge. Do not apply Dap-A-Goo to the flashing of the airscoop that overlaps on to the fuselage. Apply the fairing first. Wipe away any excess Dap-A-Goo and secure firmly with low tack masking tape. Then apply the scoop and secure with low tack masking tape. Let dry for several hours and then remove the tape by pealing it back upon itself. Do NOT pull the tape off at right angles to the surface to which it is stuck.

Question:  My Mig 21 included some parts that look like two servo tray sets made from plywood. What these for?

Answer: The Mig21 is retract ready. The extra plywood servo tray sets are for retract servos if fitted and can be placed where ever suitable for your retract setup and your servos

Question: My Mig 21 came with fixed landing gear pre-mounted into blocks with a metal retaining plate. There are also pre-drilled mounting holes in the wing and fuselage that match with the retaining plate. What screws do you recommend for attaching the gear to the wing and fuselage?

Answer: Early production runs of the Mig 21 came with 12 metric Phillips head wood screws. Depending on market preferences around the world some modelers did not like the Phillips head and other modelers did not like the metric threads. The factory no longer provides the screws with the model leaving the choice of screws open the modeller.

Generally we suggest a pan head #6 or #8 wood or self tapping sheet metal screw about 5/8" long. Try the #6 first. Thread it into the pre-drilled holes and ensure that it bites into the mounting rail wood properly. If it does... go with the #6 screws. If the pre-drilled holes are too large for a #6 screw, try a #8 but if it is a tight fit, do not screw it in all the way. Back it out and redrill the holes first. You do NOT want to split the rails by forcing a large screw into a small pilot hole.

Question: On page two of the Assembly and Operators Manual that came with my Mig21 (version 20050329 per back cover) there is mention of four lock nuts in addition to four butterfly nuts. I cannot find these four lock nuts. What should I do?

Answer: The lock nuts were difficult to install and remove when used in conjunction with butterfly nuts. We are now using a better grade of butterfly nuts that do not require the use of additional lock nuts. Lock nuts are no longer included with the Mig21. If you do not wish to remove the wings for transport and want a longer term solution to ensure the butterfly nuts remain snug, use medium thread locker such as Z42 from Pacer.

In any event, check the butterfly nuts before each flying outing to ensure they are snug (do not overtighten or you will strip the studs) and retain the wing securely attached to the fuselage.

Question: I can not find the engine mounts for my Mig 21. What should I do?

Answer: The engine mounts are wrapped in foam and packed by the factory into the fuselage. Remove the fuselage hatch from the bottom of the fuselage and the power module firewall from the front of the fuselage and retrieve the engine mounts.  

Question: The control rod for the rudder on my Mig 21 connects to a vertical torque rod that activates the rudder. All of this is internal within the aft end of the fuselage. Given that the rudder hinge line is swept back, how can I have this work properly?

Answer: The Mig21 has undergone several upgrades since the Mark I production lot was released in mid 2005. The rudder connection has since been changed to an external connecting rod and horn system.

For Mark I models with the internal rudder control rod system, there are two simply approaches to having this work better.

1) Leave the control rod system internal to the fuselage but change to a ball link on the arm that is connected to the torque rod. Leave the end of the control rod itself free to move laterally side to side but use a ball link to accomodate the difference in angle caused by the rotation of the swept rudder.

2) Change the control rod for the rudder to be external and connect to a traditional external rudder control horn. The further addition of a ball link on the horn itself may make for a smoother movement.

 

Question: On page two of the Assembly and Operators Manual that came with my Mig21 (version 20050329 per back cover) there is mention of wing root gaskets. I cannot find them. What should I do?

Answer: The Mig21 wing fits into cavities in the sides of the fuselage. The wing root joint is therefore recessed and not exposed directly to air flow. The wing root gaskets are not necessary and not included with the Mig21 due to this unique method of recessing the wing roots into cavities in the sides of the fuselage.

The assembly and operations manual for the VMA-M195U P51D Mustang 90-120+ ARF is attached here for download.

20200105... See attached.pdf (x2) for pictures and dimensions of the VMA-M195U Horizontal Stabilizer. 

PLEASE READ ME FIRST

BEFORE PROCEEDING TO ASSEMBLE OR OPERATE THIS PRODUCT

LIABILITY DISCLAIMER

The authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product expressly disclaim any warranties or representations, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to implied warranties of fitness, accuracy, timeliness or applicability of the information and/or product provided here. In no event will the authors and/or suppliers and/or disseminaters of this information and/or product have any obligation arising from contract or tort, for loss of revenue or profit, or for indirect, special, incidental, consequential or other damages of any sort arising from this information and/or product. In using this information and/or product, the user accepts all responsibility for and all liability associated with such use.

CAUTION

A Remote Control (RC) model aircraft is not a toy. It is a flying model that functions much like a full size airplane. If you do not assemble and operate model aircraft properly you can cause injury to yourself and others and damage property. DO NOT FLY a model aircraft unless you are qualified.

You are ultimately responsible for the mechanical, aeronautical and electrical integrity of any model you fly and all of the components that make up the model including but not limited to the airframe itself, control surfaces, hinges, linkages, covering, engine, motor, radio, servos, switches, wiring, battery and parts. Check all components before and after each flight. It is essential that you act with the clear understanding that you are solely responsible for all aspects of the model at all times. DO NOT FLY until it is right.  

AVOIDING 90% of PROBLEMS that can arise:  

1. READ THE CAUTION ABOVE & READ THE LIABILITY DISCLAIMER.You are responsible for all aspects of any model you fly. You're It!
2. READ ALL DOCUMENTATION before doing anything else! 
3. INSPECT CAREFULLY immediately upon arrival!.
4. RETAIN ALL PACKAGING until the checkout is complete! If you need to return anything you must have all of the original packaging.
5. READ & LOOK! At everything! Do it once & then do it again.
6. REMEMBER WHAT "ARF" STANDS FOR. ARF means ALMOST Ready to Fly with an emphasis on ALMOST! Some assembly and modeling skills are required.
7. ALLOW ENOUGH TIME to enjoy the assembly process! Rushing into a 6 hour job with 3 hours to spare simply will not work. This is a Hobby... take your time.
8. DRY FIT & TEST ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING before you glue anything!
9. USE 30 MINUTE EPOXY when joining wings & installing stabilizers and other structural components but only after you have dry fitted and test assembled the components without glue! Once parts are glued together they cannot be unglued and they cannot be returned or replaced without charge.
10. PLAN AHEAD! BE CAREFUL! If you get into trouble, DON'T PANIC. Review everything again, talk it over with an experienced modeler and if still in difficulty consult our Support Services.
11. TEST TEST!!! TUG TUG TUG!!! EVERYTHING... BEFORE & AFTER EACH FLIGHT! Your model may have been largely pre-constructed and may have pre-installed control rods, hinges, control surfaces and many other essential components. Hinges may have been pinned after they have been installed. However, you must double check every control surface and component before and after each flight. You and only you are responsible for the integrity of all components and the integrity of the model itself. Check everything before and after each flight. Tug on control surfaces, control rods, mounting bolts, T-nuts, mounting plates... tug on everything!
12. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WING BOLTS or other fasteners. You want bolts and nuts snugly tight and if metal you can use a medium grade thread locker such as Pacer Z42 to help them stay tight. Fasteners must be snug and secure. However a model airplane is not a farm tractor or a garbage compactor. You do not need a pipe wrench or an electric drill to tighten up wing bolts or any other fastener. Leave your plumbing and power tools at home.. hand tools only and go easy on the torque... snug and secure... not stripped or torqued until they squeak or break.  Wing bolts can take tremendous torque before breaking... but when you over tighten them or use an electric screw driver on a set of wing bolts, long before the bolts break you can fracture the fuselage, crack the mounting blocks or pull the heads of the bolts through the wing... these problems have a nasty habit of revealing themselves when you least expect the wing to fall off!
13. DO NOT OVERPOWER ANY MODEL! Stay within the recommended power range for the model. If you overpower the model you run a high risk of structural failure that will lead to loss of control and a subsequent crash that will destroy the model and may cause injury and/or property damage.
14. ASSUME NOTHING! Remember the old yarn about what happens when you ASS-U-ME something. Check everything repeatedly and frequently and DO NOT FLY any model unless you are satisfied that everything is in good working order.